Author travels history, country for stellar sandwiches
It was in rural Kansas, near the geographical center of America, that David Sax hit rock bottom in his search for the perfect deli sandwich. It happened innocently enough, in an Arby’s. He had ordered a Reuben.
“What I got was this horrible abomination of plasticized cheese that tasted like it had come from a napalm plant,” he says. “Meat that had been pressed and pumped and vacuumed and torn apart to increase its yield in water but had no flavor. Bread that was just white bread painted a dark rye color. It was horrendous. And it was microwaved. I had two bites and that was it.”
But if Sax found the nadir of the Reuben, he also found its zenith. And — perhaps surprisingly — he didn’t find it in New York, the birthplace of the Jewish deli; he found it in Los Angeles.
“It’s a very difficult business to be in,” Sax says, “but the (delis) that are most inspiring, the ones that people cling to, the ones that people enshrine for years and years are the traditional Jewish delis. And Los Angeles just happens to have more of them than any city I’ve been to.”