Why: Paparazzi opened July 5 at the site of the former Leonardo’s in Battle Ground. Owner Lloyd Taylor and owner/chef Kevin Zybura kept their predecessor’s Italian roots and added Northwest cuisine to the mix.
Dishes are made fresh to order, fruits and vegetables are purchased from Battle Ground Produce, and Painted Hills beef is served in entrees such as Beef Stroganoff.
Atmosphere: Three main dining areas offer booth and chair seating. There are spots for an intimate dinner date as well as for open family-style dining. The floor is a potpourri of wood, tile, and stained concrete that varies throughout the restaurant. Overall, the remodeled space complements the menu options.
What I tried: My dining companion and I ordered the crab cake appetizer. For dinner, I decided on the tequila lime shrimp and my dining companion had the flat iron steak. We also had the arugula salad. For dessert, we sampled the Key lime pie—a bona fide recipe made with Key limes and a caramel-kissed graham-cracker crust.
The crab cakes were a highlight of our meal. They lacked the typical breaded coating, were at least an inch thick and consisted mostly of crab meat. A moderately tangy tartar sauce was drizzled over the top, complementing the delicious crab meat without compromising its fresh, sweet flavor.
Unfortunately, my salad arrived with a hair on it. When I pointed it out to the waiter, he quickly apologized and whisked the salad away. I was given a replacement along with another apology. I was not charged for the salad.
When I ordered the salad, the waitress informed me that its arugula is fresh-cut when diners place the order, so it is as fresh as it comes. The flavor was truly arugula at its best. Pecans and goat cheese are add-ins, sliced apple tops the salad and the arugula is tossed in a lemon vinaigrette which is mellowed a bit by the cheese—though it was a little strong toward the end where the vinaigrette had settled.
The shrimp entrée begins with a serving of mashed potatoes with cilantro. Atop the potatoes, which are left somewhat chunky, sliced baguette bread pieces are arranged in a circle and topped with tequila-lime-sauce tossed shrimp. Additional sauce is added over the top, enough to create a presence in every bite. The dish is then garnished with fresh-chopped tomatoes and parmesan cheese, and a grilled butterflied tiger prawn is then added to the center. Overall, the flavor of this dish was of the rich, slightly citrus-infused sauce, punctuated by the parmesan. The shrimp was deveined and cooked just right and the taste of the tiger prawn was surprisingly more akin to lobster than shrimp.
My dining companion enjoyed the flat iron steak. It was cooked medium-well, precisely according to her request. Accompanying the steak were mashed potatoes with goat cheese folded in. This created a little adventure and kept them interesting. Green beans are included as well. These had only a trivial amount of crunch left to them.
The Key lime pie filling was delicious and classic, but the caramel in the crust made it too hard to break apart easily with a fork.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The lasagna sells out regularly. Spaghetti may be ordered with just marinara sauce, or diners can opt for meat sauce, sausage, or Chef Zybura’s homemade meatballs.
Other observations: Just off the kitchen, a wine room is in development. It will showcase wines for diners to choose from among.
Zybura says that the menu will undergo subtle changes to keep it fresh and appropriate to the season.
Cost: Appetizers start at $2.99 for a half-loaf of house-made bread with herb butter and entrees top out at $17.99 for the Northwest salmon served with vegetables and risotto. Desserts are $5.99 and $6.99.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday.
Telephone: 360-687-0418.
Where: 15 E. Main St., Battle Ground.
Health score: Paparazzi has received a pre-opening inspection and will receive a routine inspection sometime in the near future. For information, call Clark County Public Health at 360-397-8428.
