Why: After eight years on Northeast 164th Avenue in Vancouver, Chef Peter Leigh Gallin packed up his Applewood Restaurant and Bar, and moved it to new digs at Southeast 192nd Avenue and 20th Street in East Vancouver.
Doors opened Dec. 1 and a steady stream of customers has since filled the 4,900-square-foot restaurant with as many as 250 diners on Friday evenings, Gallin said. The old, 3,200-square-foot restaurant averaged 30 to 40 Friday night diners.
I wanted to check out the new scene.
Atmosphere: The first thing you notice when you walk through the swinging glass door is an oversized stuffed sofa and the flicker of candles on the reception counter. Subdued colors — pale greens and blues — sound a relaxed note. Black-and-white photos dot the walls, and a trio of stained-glass panels hang above a divider, which lines the hallway past the bar lounge and the open kitchen.
The polished concrete floor gleams in teal. Light streams through a bank of windows. And, overhead, exposed duct work and track lighting mix to create an über-urban feel.
What I tried: Fresh sliced bread with butter started the meal as we looked over the menu. We started with appetizers: Wild Mushroom Pot Stickers and Chilled Jumbo Prawns with Ancho Chili Aioli. For lunch, I ordered the Grilled New York Steak; my companion ordered the Salmon Filet of the day.
Most of my pot-sticker experience comes from frozen food — not bad stuff and easy to whip up in a hurry, but nothing really to brag about. If you’ve had similar encounters, cast them out. This isn’t that.
These pot stickers were stuffed with a trio of wild mushrooms — chanterelles, matsutakes and shiitakes — and came with miso (fermented soy) broth for dunking. The result was a light, earthy taste with a satisfying, meaty mushroom texture.
My dining companion said that the prawns tasted fresh, and the accompanying ancho chili aioli sauce gave them a spicy zip that was interesting but not overpowering.
The main course arrived sizzling hot. Topping my New York steak was a dollop of blue cheese butter, which melted to coat the steak in a rich, creamy sauce. Later, Gallin said the butter includes Oregon blue cheese, garlic, horseradish and chives. The melted medley added more savory flavors to my medium-rare steak, which was done exactly right. The garlic mashed potatoes that accompanied it were light and fluffy, and the side of green beans had a fresh and satisfying crunch.
The Salmon Filet, also served with garlic mashed potatoes and green beans, was seared on the outside and moist and flaky inside.
Gallin said searing makes the dish.
“The best part is the edges, when they’re all crispy.”
I’d agree with that. But the blue cheese melt over New York steak was the highlight for me.
Other observations: Service was prompt and courteous, but this isn’t the place to come if you’re time-crunched. My friend and I lingered for two hours, chitchatting and savoring our appetizers, bread and meals. For us, on a day with plenty of time to spare, it was an enjoyable and rich experience. But on a day with an hour for lunch or a meeting to rush off to, that savoring experience could have easily become indigestion-inducing as the hours ticked away.
Reservations are also recommended, even for lunch.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The dinner menu is intriguing, especially the Sautéed Rainbow Trout, which is served with lemon caper tarragon butter sauce and toasted sunflower seeds. Sign me up.
Cost: Appetizers run $6 to $9. Figure $8 to $12 for a lunch entree and $19 to $23 for dinner.
Hours: Opening at 11 a.m. daily. Sunday through Thursday open to 9 p.m. and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Telephone: 360-210-5522.
Online: http://applewood.net/news.htm.
Where: 2005 S.E. 192nd Ave., Suite 100, Vancouver.
Health score: Applewood Restaurant and Bar passed its preopening inspection Nov. 24 and has yet to receive an official inspection. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
