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Dining Out: Heavenly, messy barbecue on the menu

The Columbian
Published: July 9, 2010, 12:00am

Why: Some men get ties or cologne as an anniversary gift. Ron Bond got a smoker. And that led the 58-year-old Vancouver man to pore over barbecue books and mix up pots of sauce to coat the meat he was smoking.

Then came a July 4 block party and a pork smoke, which, as he tells it, had the neighborhood clambering for more. And drew a remark from his wife of 29 years:

“My wife looked at me and said, ‘Boy, you’re in just in pig heaven, aren’t you? You’re just in pig heaven when you’re cooking,’” Bond said with a grin.

From that observation and off-the-cuff remark, the seeds (and name) for Pig Heaven Barbecue began their germination. It would take several years before Bond, who worked in the mortgage industry, would open for business. For five years, he sold his smoked fare from Sunny Market on Northeast Minnehaha Street. On Mother’s Day, he opened for business in a former Smokey’s Pizza.

Bond said his recipes are a combination of his own and family hand-me-downs.

Atmosphere: Out front you’ll notice the barbecue joint’s sign: A smiling pink pig with wings hovering near the building. In front, there’s a wood smoker with stacks of firewood.

Step inside and it’s a wood-paneled affair. Red vinyl booths line the restaurant while a scattering of tables fill the center. Look for the pink pigs hanging from the chandeliers, near the retro ’70s fire pit.

Bonds plans to introduce acoustic jazz on Friday and Saturday nights in a few weeks.

What I tried: I tried the Pulled Pork Platter, while my dining companion opted for the Pork Spare Ribs Platter. Both dinners come with two sides and a hunk of jalapeno corn bread. For sides, I went for the potato salad and brisket baked beans; my dining companion tried red beans and rice and a side of potato salad. For dessert, we split an order of warm bread pudding topped with a scoop of ice cream.

The platters were generous — and messy. The pulled pork, tender and moist, was enough to stuff a couple of sandwiches. The pork spare ribs came drenched in barbecue sauce. The sides were pretty standard for barbecue, a mayo-rich potato salad, baked beans and such. But the jalapeno corn bread, with bits of pepper sprinkled throughout, was an unexpected and tasty find.

For dessert, the bread pudding — ample for two — took me on a cinnamon-infused stroll down Memory Lane to my stepmom’s cooking. The warm pudding brimmed with raisins and nuts and, with that ice cream scoop, was a nice little bit of a la mode to finish off the barbecue.

Other observations: This is a get-sloppy, meat-centric place. Expect to create a mound of crumpled napkins as you wipe barbecue sauce from your chops and fingers. I managed to slosh sauce onto my white lace top. Consider yourself warned, and dress accordingly.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The Barbecued Stuffed Baked Potato piqued my curiosity. It’s a spud served with a choice of pulled pork, beef brisket or chicken and then topped with cheddar cheese, sour cream, butter, chives and barbecue sauce.

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Cost: Expect to spend $7.50 to $13 for a platter; $6 to $9 for a sandwich or wrap.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Contact: 360-213-0316, 360-241-7709 or www.pigheavenbbq.com/.

Where: 2905 St. Johns Blvd., Vancouver.

Health score: Pig Heaven passed its opening inspection on June 3, but has yet to receive an official inspection. Zero is a perfect score. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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