Why: SweetFire Barbecue opened May 24 behind what used to be the Publisher’s Café on Main Street in Washougal. The menu consists of slow-smoked pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches, ribs and meat sold by the pound, as well as a few traditional sides. Owner David Russell makes the coleslaw and potato salad from scratch. Now he’s working on his own baked bean recipe to replace the restaurant wholesale beans he presently offers. Russell departs from tradition with his distinctive gluten-free barbecue sauce, which he hopes to bottle and sell. SweetFire Barbecue doesn’t offer family dining, only catering and take-out.
Atmosphere: White and red are tastefully combined with touches of gray to create a streamlined, no-clutter waiting area for customers. An open doorway allows a view into the large kitchen, which appears meticulously kept.
What I Tried: I had the 2 Slider Pulled Pork meal with potato salad and my dining companion tried the 2 Slider Chopped Brisket meal with coleslaw.
Our sliders were individually paper-wrapped and sides arrived in Styrofoam containers, all packed in brown bags with ice-cold canned sodas. Bottled water is also available.
The slider buns were soft on the outside and toasted on the cut edge. Each was filled with a measured amount of lean meat that was sweet and fragrant. The meat didn’t have the usual honey, hickory or mesquite barbecue flavor; it had a slightly smoky tinge dotted with Russell’s secret blend of herbs. There wasn’t a lot of sauce on the sliders — just enough to keep the pulled meat together. Those who prefer their meat messy should ask for extra sauce.
The coleslaw and potato salad sides were both distinct in their own right. The potato salad included chopped hard-boiled egg, parsley and minced red onion without excessive amounts of mayonnaise, salt or pepper. I found it simple, healthful and fresh. The coleslaw has both red and green cabbage, as well as carrots, topped with a homemade dressing seasoned with celery seed. It wasn’t soupy and had a pleasant tang and good balance of flavor.
Other observations: If you go for the sliders, I recommend the three- or four-slider meal to satisfy a hearty appetite and the two-slider meal for a lighter one.
Cost: Meals range from $5.50 to $7.50 and come with one 4-ounce side and a drink. Sandwiches can be purchased alone from $1.75, or in packs up to $16.75. Meat by the pound is $11.99. Ribs by the rack are $14.99 and $24.99.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Telephone: 360-210-7672.
Where: 2131 Main St., Washougal.
Health Score: SweetFire Barbecue received a score of 0 on June 14. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
