Dulin's thrives in its new home

Cafe remains true to its Irish roots

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Why: After spending many years at its previous location, Dulin's Village Cafe & Espresso Bar has relocated just north of its former digs to a newly renovated space. The menu has a few new items on it but remains true to its Irish roots, with selections that include corned beef, Irish stew and Guinness stout.

What I tried: I decided on the huevos rancheros and my dining companion had the French toast with ham.

The huevos rancheros is made with eggs, whole black beans, corn tortillas, ranchero sauce, cheddar cheese and avocado with a dollop of sour cream and a portion of salsa fresca alongside. It was also served with breakfast potatoes. Although I found the breakfast potatoes bland with a greasy exterior and dry inside, I did enjoy the huevos rancheros, which had a sensible balance of mild and spicy ingredients.

My dining companion liked the French toast that was made with egg-soaked sourdough bread. It was grilled to a light brown crust outside and a soft center within, and soaked up syrup without much effort. The ham that accompanied the toast was thicker than usual and very lean.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Irish potato dishes include the Dublin, made with house-made corned beef, sautéed onions and peppers and Swiss cheese on top.

Light breakfast options include a vanilla yogurt with granola and fresh fruit.

The Shannon's Salad sounded like a delicious lunch option. The salad combines mixed greens, poppyseed dressing and thin-sliced chicken breast. It's garnished with fresh orange, apple, tomato and avocado. From the sandwiches list, the Claire was intriguing. It is made with grilled chicken breast, sautéed onions, brie cheese and pesto on a sourdough roll.

House-made carrot cake and key lime pie might prove a delightful finish to a meal.

Atmosphere: The space is open and airy with stained concrete floors and simple curtains that hang at the large, street-side windows. Wood beams lend a sense of cottage construction to the space, which is enhanced by skylights. A color scheme of green, burgundy and ivory is accented with oak-wood trim. Irish-themed prints on the walls add Irish influence. The dining space is mostly tables and chairs with a few booths along the perimeter. You can hear the bustle from the semi-open kitchen, which brings a homey essence to the dining experience.

Other observations: The wait staff was polite and very attentive. I found the new atmosphere much better suited to the restaurant's Irish character than the former location, and the restaurant's overall cleanliness enhanced the dining experience. The food was flavorful and arrived promptly.

Cost: Most breakfast combinations and omelettes cost $7.95 to $9.95. Sides are $1.25 to $4. Light breakfast selections are $5.95 or $6.95. Espresso drinks come in 12-ounce and 16-ounce sizes and range from $2.50 to $3.75. Lunch items cost $8.95 to $11.95. Soup and stew is $3.50 to $6.95. Desserts are $2.95 or $3.95.

Summer hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

Location: 1929 Main St., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-737-9907, www.dulinscafe.com.

Health score: Dulin's Village Cafe & Espresso Bar received a score of 5 on July 3. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.