Consider sustainability in choosing a fish roe for eating. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program has a handy online guide at seafoodwatch.org to help you choose among the various types of roe. Not all roes are listed, so check with your purveyor about where the roe is from and whether the fish from which it was harvested was wild or farm-raised.
Here are Seafood Watch’s “best choices” and “good alternatives”:
Capelin (smelt roe, masago): Method: Wild. Location: Iceland. (Good alternative: Wild. Location: Canada.)
Salmon roe (ikura): Method: Drift gillnet, purse seine, troll. Location: Alaska.
Sea urchin (uni): Method: Wild. Location: Canada. (Good alternative: Wild. Location: California.)
Sturgeon (beluga, osetra and sevruga caviar, sturgeon roe): Method: Farmed. Location: United States.
White sturgeon (beluga, osetra and sevruga caviar, sturgeon roe): Method: Farmed in tank systems. Location: Canada.
Caviar, once upon a holiday past, meant a tin of Caspian sturgeon roe nestled in ice with a mother-of-pearl spoon, accompanied by Champagne. Today, concerns about the environmental impact of those fabled Caspian fisheries — and one’s budget — call for greener (and more affordable) roe options from other types of fish that can still pack a decadent party punch.
“It wakes your mouth up. It’s a slap on your palate in a positive way,” says Rick Moonen of RM Seafood restaurant in Las Vegas, on the enduring appeal of fish roe. “It’s a pop and a burst of ocean flavor. I think it’s just fun.”