When the mittens and scarves come out, people come in for Homayon Karimy’s aush. The fragrant, sienna-colored, deeply spiced Afghan soup takes its name from the flat wheat noodles, often spelled “ash,” that turn silken as they cook with vegetables, lemon juice, yogurt and ground sumac. The owner of the Kite Runner Cafe in Arlington, Va., serves this meatless version as well as aush with beef. It’s homey, humble and sure to ward off a winter’s chill.
Aush Vegetable Soup
6 servings
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Pulse 1 or 2 chopped Roma tomatoes, 1/2 small red onion, 2 or 3 cilantro stems with leaves, 2 garlic cloves, 1/2 unseeded jalapeño pepper and 1 rib of chopped celery in a food processor until finely chopped. With the motor running, drizzle in 2 tablespoons olive oil, to form a coarse paste.
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Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat. Stir in the vegetable paste; cook for a few minutes until softened and fragrant.
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Clear a spot at the center of the pot; plop 2 tablespoons tomato paste there and cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes, then stir it in. Season with 2 teaspoons ground turmeric, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper. Cook for a few minutes, then add 15 ounces canned, no-salt-added chickpeas (rinsed and drained), 1 1/2 cups mixed frozen vegetables and 1 cup frozen chopped spinach, stirring to incorporate.
