Passover: The Softer Side of Matzo

Whenever I ask a room full of people what they think Jewish food is, I get a resounding “Kugel!” For many, the baked pudding — sweet or savory; noodle or potato — of European (Ashkenazic) origins instantly connotes the Jewish experience.

That’s probably true for American Jews of European descent, or anyone who’s eaten at a kosher deli. But Jews have been on the move since the first exodus 3,500 years ago, and there is a whole world of different flavors and styles of Jewish food.

With Passover soon upon us — the eight-day holiday begins at sundown April 22 — it’s the matzo variation of this iconic dish that intrigues me. Kugels created with “the bread of affliction” can sometimes have an ersatz quality that says “I’m not the real thing.” It’s time for a makeover.

Consider first that Passover is as much about spring as it is about that ancient flight from Egypt. The holiday is, after all, one of the three agriculturally important festivals in Judaism, and occurs during Nisan, the first month of the Jewish calendar and a New Year for the growing season. The Old Testament is filled with references to leeks, hyssop and other herbs that appear in spring gardens and markets. It’s no coincidence that the holiday’s symbolic Seder plate consists of seasonal foods that symbolize the birth and renewal of a Jewish nation. Its elements constitute a ready-made shopping list for a fresh approach to kugel.

Options open up further when we broaden the definition of kugel to casserole. There’s an entire Sephardic (very generally put: Mediterranean) pie tradition to the matzo kugels to explore. The medieval Sephardic double-crusted meat pie — known variously as pastida, pastel and pastilla — has inspired generations of Passover cooks to clever holiday solutions. In “The Book of Jewish Food,” Claudia Roden shares her Egyptian family’s maiena, a meat-and-matzo pie scented with cinnamon and allspice. Edda Servi Machlin, chronicler of the Jewish cuisine of her native Pitigliano, Italy, offers us “mazzagne” — lasagna made with sheets of egg matzo instead of egg pasta.

No matter where Jewish cooks draw inspiration, the beauty of Passover puddings and pies is that they have always been meant to be prepared well ahead (think Sabbath cooking and communal ovens) — a welcome convenience during the holidays.

A matzo pie with chicken and artichokes is a great way to repurpose Seder leftovers such as roasted or braised chicken (or turkey or lamb), chicken soup, hard-cooked eggs and herbs. (You’ll need four cups of meat; consider making extra for the Seder so you can readily make this dish later in the week.) Inspired by the double-crusted Sephardic Passover pastel, this meat pie uses sheets of matzo briefly soaked in stock to create the crust and is filled with a lemony chopped meat mixture and a layer of chopped eggs and gremolata, the classic Italian condiment of minced parsley, garlic and lemon zest. Because spring is prime artichoke season, crown the pie with sauteed artichokes. (If you can’t find baby ones, you can manage with frozen artichoke hearts. But avoid using canned.)

This casserole is so satisfying, it’s worth starting from scratch: Brown chicken parts (use mostly dark meat for succulence) or a whole chicken with onions, carrots and other aromatics in the recipe. Add water to braise the meat and produce the stock all in one pot. Then pull the tender meat off the bones to begin the recipe.

Inspired by Machlin’s meat-and-tomato-sauce mazzagne and her pesto-and-bechamel one, I came up with a striking “center of the plate” for a vegetarian Seder or anytime during Passover. Layer deep-emerald early-season sauteed greens, such as Swiss chard, spinach or nettles, with a creamy ricotta-Parmesan-egg filling and milk-soaked egg matzos that develop a lovely tenderness in the finished dish. A bit of taleggio or fontina cheese adds an extra pop of flavor, and the whole thing is topped with more ricotta, which puffs up like a souffle during baking. The dish is elegant, hearty and easy to prepare. (If you strictly observe Passover dietary laws, you may need to make adjustments in your choice of cheeses.)

There’s even a matzo-friendly way to re-create the beloved cottage cheese-and-sour-cream kugel that shows up in every Temple Sisterhood community cookbook — and it’s simpler to do than the original. Use crumbled matzo instead of noodles, and crushed matzo instead of cornflakes in the lemon-scented topping. It’s wonderful warm or cold, for a “second-day” lunch or a Sunday brunch.

I think we’re good here. One more thing before you head to the supermarket: Bypass matzo farfel and use regular sheets of matzo instead. Their well-done edges add an extra note of complexity to all these kugels.

Mazzagna Verde

6 servings

MAKE AHEAD: The unbaked kugel can be covered in plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance; remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking.

From Amelia Saltsman, author of “The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Tradition” (Sterling Epicure, 2015).

1 pound spinach or Swiss chard, stemmed (may substitute stinging nettles; see note)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter or pareve butter substitute

1 medium onion, chopped

Kosher or sea salt

4 cloves garlic, minced

Freshly ground white pepper

2 cups whole-milk ricotta cheese

2 large eggs, beaten

1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1½ cups whole milk

6 sheets egg matzo (7 ounces total)

3 ounces taleggio or fontina cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes

¼ cup grated pecorino-Romano cheese

Clean and stem the spinach and chard. If using the latter, thinly slice half the stems crosswise, and reserve the rest for another use. Discard spinach or nettle stems. Chop the spinach or chard into ½- to 1-inch pieces.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and the tablespoon of butter or butter substitute in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion and chard stems, if using, and season lightly with salt; cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cook for 1 minute and then add greens, in batches as needed, until wilted. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of pepper, cover pan, and cook until greens are very tender, 7 to 15 minutes. You should have a generous 2 cups.

While the greens are cooking, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Whisk together the ricotta, eggs, ¾ cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of white pepper. Pour the milk into shallow dish large enough to accommodate a sheet of matzo.

Brush an 8-by-8-inch (6-cup) or similar sized baking dish with some oil. Spread a little of the spinach mixture, including its juices, over bottom of baking dish. Briefly soak 1 matzo in milk to soften it, then place it in the baking dish. Soak a second matzo and fit it in, as needed, to complete the layer. Spoon half the remaining greens over the matzo, spreading them evenly.

Add a second matzo layer. Spoon half the ricotta mixture over the matzo and spread evenly. Scatter the taleggio or fontina cheese over the matzo. Repeat the matzo and spinach layers, using all the remaining spinach. Add a fourth and final layer of milk-soaked matzo to the stack. Top with the remaining ricotta mixture.

Mix together the remaining ¼ cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano and the pecorino-Romano, then sprinkle that over the top of the casserole. Pour some of the soaking milk over the top of the dish, adding as much of it as you can into the corners and sides to fill.

At this point, the kugel can be covered and refrigerated up to a day in advance; remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the plastic wrap, as needed; cover the kugel tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the ricotta topping is puffed and lightly golden and slightly loose at the center. Let it rest for at least 10 minutes before serving, during which time the topping will settle and its center will firm up.

Note: The sting in stinging nettles disappears as soon as nettles hit the heat. Wear gloves when stemming and cleaning nettles.

Nutrition Per serving: 500 calories, 29 g protein, 28 g carbohydrates, 31 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 165 mg cholesterol, 800 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Sweet Dairy Brunch Kugel

8 servings

MAKE AHEAD: The unbaked kugel needs to be refrigerated for at least 3 hours and up to overnight. The baked kugel can be cooled, covered and refrigerated 2 days in advance, or wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and aluminum foil and frozen for up to 1 month.

From Amelia Saltsman, author of “The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Tradition” (Sterling Epicure, 2015).

For the kugel:

3 large eggs, beaten

¾ cup whole-milk cottage cheese

¾ cup sour cream

⅓ cup sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or pareve butter substitute, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 cup whole milk

¼ cup raisins, preferably dark

4 sheets matzo, crumbled (pieces not larger than 1 inch)

For the topping:

1 sheet matzo

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon or ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 teaspoons unsalted butter or pareve butter substitute, melted

For the kugel: Stir together the eggs, cottage cheese, sour cream, sugar, butter or butter substitute, vanilla extract and salt in a mixing bowl, then add the milk, raisins and crumbled matzo, stirring until incorporated. The mixture will be very loose. Pour into an 8-by-8-inch or other shallow 6-cup baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight to firm up.

For the topping: Crush the sheet of matzo into pieces that are mostly ¼-inch. Measure out 1/3 cup of them; reserve the remaining crumbs for another use. Stir together the 1/3 cup crumbs, sugar, salt, lemon zest or cinnamon and melted butter or butter substitute in a medium bowl.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap the kugel.

Sprinkle the topping evenly over the kugel; bake for about 35 minutes, until golden brown and cooked through. Cool for at least 15 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.

Nutrition Per serving (using kosher salt and butter): 280 calories, 8 g protein, 30 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 240 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 15 g sugar

Nutrition Per serving (using kosher salt and pareve butter substitute): 280 calories, 8 g protein, 30 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 95 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 15 g sugar

Chicken and Artichoke Matzo Pie With Eggs and Gremolata

6 to 8 servings

MAKE AHEAD: The chicken-vegetable mixture can be cooked, cooled and refrigerated a day in advance. The assembled, unbaked matzo pie can be covered tightly and refrigerated a day in advance; remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking.

From Amelia Saltsman, author of “The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Tradition” (Sterling Epicure, 2015).

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium carrot, scrubbed well and chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

6 sprigs thyme

1 pound frozen artichoke hearts, defrosted (may substitute 1 pound fresh baby artichokes, see note)

Kosher or sea salt

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (if using fresh baby artichokes, you’ll need another lemon; see note)

¼ cup loosely packed mint leaves, chopped

About 4 cups cooked, mostly dark-meat chicken, cut into ½-inch pieces

2½ cups no-salt-added chicken broth

2 tablespoons schmaltz (solidified chicken fat), or more as needed

Freshly ground white pepper

½ cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 hard-cooked eggs

6 sheets matzo (7 ounces total), or as needed

Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Stir in the onion, carrot, half the garlic and the thyme sprigs; cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion has softened. Transfer to a bowl; discard the thyme sprigs. Wipe out the saute pan; you’ll use it again.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in the same saute pan over medium-high heat. Pat the artichokes dry with paper towels, then add them to the pan; season lightly with salt. Cook for about 3 minutes, then stir in half the remaining garlic, half the lemon zest and all the mint. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon and stir to incorporate. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add the chicken to the cooled, cooked vegetable mixture, along with ½ cup of the broth, a tablespoon or two of schmaltz (to taste), the juice of the remaining half lemon, ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper.

To make the gremolata, finely chop together the parsley and remaining lemon zest and the remaining garlic; reserve one-quarter of it for a final garnish. Chop the eggs and mix together with the remaining gremolata. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Use about 2 tablespoons of schmaltz to grease the bottom and sides of an 8-by-8-inch baking dish (or equivalent in volume).

Pour some broth into a shallow dish large enough to accommodate a sheet of matzo. Briefly soak 1 matzo in the broth until it has softened just a bit, then place in baking dish. Soak a second matzo, using pieces of it as needed to complete coverage of that bottom layer. Repeat to create a second matzo layer.

Spoon the chicken-vegetable mixture evenly over matzo in the baking dish. Scatter the egg-gremolata mixture evenly as the next layer. Soak the remaining matzos, as needed, to create a 2-layer-thick top crust.

Arrange the artichokes evenly over the top, covering the matzo completely. Pour 1 to 1½ cups of the broth slowly over the pie and around it, allowing the liquid to flow in along the sides of the baking dish. Cover tightly with aluminum foil; bake until fragrant and bubbly around the edges, about 35 minutes. Uncover and cool for at least 10 minutes before cutting into squares.

If there are any pan juices, spoon them over over each serving. Garnish with the remaining gremolata.

Note: To prepare fresh baby artichokes, use a Microplane zester to remove the yellow zest from the lemons and reserve. Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into a medium bowl of water. Ruthlessly peel away and discard the darker outer leaves of an artichoke until you get to the pale leaves. Shave away any dark remnants near the base and cut off the tops of the artichoke to remove the prickly tips. Drop the artichoke into the acidulated water and repeat with remaining artichokes. Cut each artichoke lengthwise into thin slices and return them to the water until ready to cook as directed above.

Nutrition Per serving (based on 8): 340 calories, 22 g protein, 29 g carbohydrates, 15 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 100 mg cholesterol, 230 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar