Pumpkin spice — at its core an innocent blend of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves most commonly used in pumpkin pie — has become a seasonal tyrant. Often presented as orange-hued and artificial, for many, the flavor is no longer a novelty but a nuisance, saturating everything from coffee creamer to potato chips. The true flavors of fall — those that harken changing leaf colors, crisp mornings and a warm fireplace — can’t possibly be captured in a commercially prepared pumpkin spice latte.
We asked a barista, a baker, a pastry chef and a kolache maker to create elevated versions of popular pumpkin spice products. They pulled forward ingredients like cardamom, turmeric and sweet potatoes to offer a more well-rounded profile of seasonal flavors.
With its distinct, complex flavor that’s at once spicy, herbal and citrusy, cardamom — a spice made from the seeds of several plants native to India — is often underutilized as a fall spice. It pairs well with cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, as well as citrus zests and preserves. Petra Lively, owner of Breadhaus in Grapevine, Texas, uses the exotic spice in her cardamom pecan braided sweet bread, an impressive alternative to pumpkin bread that’s easy to prepare.
Pumpkin spice flavor has also crept its way into kolaches, the popular Czech pastries filled with fruit, custard or cream cheese-based fillings. But Erin Duffey of Duffey’s Kolache Bakery in far north Fort Worth, Texas, offers an autumn-inspired alternative he calls Harvest Spice, made with allspice, honey and buttermilk. The result is a sweet and creamy taste of fall that’s as aromatic as it is addicting. Try his kolache filling recipe with any basic kolache dough recipe, and look for it on the kolache shop’s menu this month.