Battle Ground woman walks across Spain, twice, and finds her pace

El Camino has many paths, but its core is a well-worn journey that dates back to the Middle Ages. The final destination, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, is said to house the remains of the biblical apostle St. James the Greater.

Beginning in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, on Sept. 5, Herron and Sayers chose Camino Franc?s as their course due to its popularity with pilgrims and, thus, great support in nearby villages that offer pilgrim hostels known as albergues.

The days of the pilgrim

After a week together — including climbing the 4,000-foot elevation of the Pyren?es while coming off jet lag — the friends split up. Even though Sayers was also an avid hiker, she was plagued with blisters and decided to slow her pace to let her feet rest. In the end, the ladies completed their trek on Oct. 6 and Oct. 13, respectively.

Herron quickly established a routine. She would wake just before dawn, walk a while, have a pastry and caf? con leche, walk a couple of hours more, eat a bocadillo (Spanish sandwich), arrive at her final overnight destination around 2 or 3 p.m., find a hostel, shower, rinse out her clothes, prepare for the next day, have dinner and turn in early. Throughout the 4 1/2 weeks, she averaged 15 miles each day, depending on terrain, and taking in a bit of sightseeing.

Known most prominently as a spiritual journey, El Camino is also undertaken as a secular goal and for the fitness aspect. Whatever the reason, Herron found a sense of camaraderie in the people she met from all walks of life and all corners of the earth. She also found it to be greatly reflective and introspective.

“You walk the Camino like you walk your life. I went feeling very grateful. I’ve had a blessed life, and it was my way to say thank you for that. Therefore, each day I woke up wanting to do it some more because you keep moving forward; you have a goal for the day, but you’re still living in the present.”

After what she described as a “perfect Camino experience,” Herron was content with this one moment in time. That was, until she accompanied Emanar Cellars on a wine and gastronomy tour to Spain in 2015. Walking the streets of San Sebastian, she noticed the all-familiar yellow, shell-shaped markers that guide pilgrims along The Way.

“I looked at those signs and San Sebastian and couldn’t think of anything better than walking four to five weeks along the coastline of Spain. I came home and booked my ticket,” Herron said.

El Camino Norte starts in Irun, a town about 15 miles east of San Sebastian, and is physically more challenging than Franc?s. Over the course of the 507-mile route, Herron celebrated her 67th birthday.

A quieter road

Not as well-supported, she pre-booked her hotel rooms so her family would know her destination each evening. Because fewer towns had lodging, some days were closer to 20-mile hikes, but Herron said the scenery made up for the extra effort. Instead of Franc?s’ wheat fields, vineyards and pilgrims in every direction, Norte offered apple orchards, corn fields and entire days without encountering another soul.

For both journeys, Herron took the same 15-pound backpack filled with two changes of clothes and miscellaneous items. Her trekking poles, socks, hiking boots and rain poncho were her most prized possessions.

For anyone considering El Camino, Herron cannot stress preparation enough.

“Find a good pair of boots, a good pack and walk,” Herron said. “You won’t regret the training. I think that people think, ‘Oh, I could walk.’ It’s not walking 10 miles a day. It’s walking 10 miles every day.”

She also suggests reading a few of the many books written about the Camino and recommends the Portland chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino. This group meets on the third Sunday of every month and consists of people who have undertaken, want to undertake or are thinking about undertaking the Camino. The chapter has its own Facebook group, Portlandia Chapter (APOC), and an email contact at Portlandia@americanpilgrims.org.

As for Herron, she is currently training for a half-marathon with her daughter and has her sights set on another jaunt in 2018 (when she’ll turn 69). She, Sue and Sue’s husband, Lee, are planning to walk across England and attack the Scottish Highlands over a month’s holiday.