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News / Life / Lifestyles

Carolina Herrera says farewell in classic style

Fashion designer steps down from her brand after more than 30 years

By Robin Givhan, The Washington Post
Published: February 16, 2018, 6:05am
3 Photos
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018.
The Ralph Lauren collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Monday, Feb. 12, 2018. (AP Photo/Richard Drew) Photo Gallery

NEW YORK – The small chamber on the ground floor at the Museum of Modern Art was nothing much to look at on its own — no priceless art, no revelatory architecture. But the glass wall at the far end of the space let in the sparkling light of the city, and that is always something quite special. The music on the soundtrack, a little Cole Porter, gave the Monday evening a kind of timeless, foot-tapping, champagne-popping glamour.

And sure enough, at the end of the Carolina Herrera fall 2018 fashion show, waiters shimmied through the crowd balancing silver trays of bubbly. After the models had all walked and the applause was finished, it was time to toast a finale and a beginning. After more than 30 years, Herrera was stepping down from her brand, settling into the role of ambassador and passing the creative reigns to designer Wes Gordon.

Gordon grew up in Atlanta and interned with Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford before launching his own collection, distinguished by its romantic and feminine sensibility. Gordon was not a hipster designer but rather one who tapped into the quiet formality of modern Southern gentry. He put his label on hiatus last year when he began consulting at Carolina Herrera.

The final collection under Herrera’s direction was mostly an homage to a kind of discreet glamour that, while still admired, is often in short supply, requiring too much restraint and good posture to pull off.

The show opened with a group of white shirts paired with black skirts — a look that has become Herrera’s work-day uniform. They were followed by silky day dresses in turquoise and orange, along with rose-colored dresses emblazoned with sparkling black panthers.

But the brand is best known for its cocktail and evening wear, and this collection was filled with airy dresses in pink and gray tulle, evening dresses in layers of tulle with a bodice of white embroidery and a particularly sleek tuxedo in fuchsia and red.

Herrera has always turned out sensual and elegant eveningwear, but she has never been an advocate of plunging necklines or leave-nothing-to-the-imagination sheerness.

Some designers think “it’s so modern to be naked or almost naked. They think it’s going to attract younger people if they do those dresses,” Herrera said to the Washington Post in 2015. “They’re trying to get people to pay attention to them. In life, there should be a little mystery.”

She lamented how some celebrities wear provocatively revealing clothes in a bid for attention.

“They’re supposed to be fashion icons and they’re not wearing anything,” Herrera said. “It’s an obsession now.”

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