Why: Rumor had it that Thai Little Home was a culinary must-taste. The little Thai restaurant, some 16 years in business, has been undergoing a few changes since Vancouver resident A.J. Juthaphan, 30, took over the reins from his aunt a couple of years ago.
Juthaphan and his partner, Bob Prompong of Portland, still serve up the same dishes that originated as family recipes in Thailand, where Juthaphan was born. But Juthaphan is adding a few new dishes to the menu, sprucing up the place with coats of fresh paint and seeking a new — yet-to-be-determined — locale for a second restaurant.
Atmosphere: Thai Little Home is a classic example of that grizzled adage, “Don’t judge a book by its cover.” From the outside, it’s classic Lego — a sectioned hodgepodge of brick, concrete blocks and other materials — in an asphalt sea, wreathed in power lines. It would be easy to overlook or, worse, dismiss the little Thai restaurant on East Fourth Plain Boulevard. And that would be a shame.
Step inside and it’s a whole other world. Thai textiles — think sequin-studded elephants and dancers — dot the freshly painted walls. The dining rooms are divided like honeycombs, with picture-window openings to share light with the marbled green laminate tables scattered throughout the restaurant.
What I tried: My dining companion and I shared our lunch dishes, starting with Fried Tofu with Peanut Sauce and glasses of Thai Iced Tea. For the main course, we went for the classic Pad Thai with chicken and Panang Curry, also with chicken.
The fried tofu arrived in a tidy heap of golden triangles. On the side were shredded carrots and a small dish of sweet peanut sauce for dunking or drizzling.
Fried tofu is an ephemeral thing, like french fries or whipped cream, and needs immediate attention, while it’s sizzling hot. This tofu arrived steaming and was perfectly matched with a drizzle of peanut sauce. The peanut sauce evoked memories of sweet-and-sour as well as peanut butter.
In a later conversation, Juthaphan explained that the sauce owes its flavor to coconut milk, curry paste and peanuts. The tofu is plucked fresh daily from the shelves of the next-door A-Dong Market and Deli, he said.
The Pad Thai, one of those signature Thai dishes, arrived as a heaped noodle dish with chunks of white-meat chicken, green onions, egg and bean sprouts. The Panang Curry came on a curry-infused plate of coconut milk, green beans, bell peppers and chicken with a couple of rice mounds.
The Pad Thai was a little on the sweet side. I later discovered this is a nod to American tastes. The dish isn’t sweet at all in Thailand, Juthaphan said, but his customers prefer it sweet. It was more than palatable with tender noodles.
The Panang Curry was one of those rare instances when a dish’s flavors collide, meld and become something bigger than its individual parts. My bet says it’s the coconut milk that infuses it with richness. But the curry and basil work their magic, too, along with crunchy veggies.
The Thai tea came like a Kahlúa and cream mixed drink, floated with a layer of cream over sweetened Thai tea. Not bad, but I’ve had better and go for the stuff with tapioca pearls and fat straws to slurp them.
Other observations: This isn’t a fancy take-your-date place, unless you and your date are more into trying out good eats than gazing over candlelit linens. It’s a funky, lived-in place with a welcoming vibe and good service.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The Avocado Curry intrigued, promising avocado, curry and coconut milk, along with bell peppers, green beans and bamboo shoots. When Juthaphan explained the dish, he had me at avocado and coconut milk. I’ll definitely order it up next time.
Cost: Figure $6.50 to $9.50 for lunch and $8 to $11 for dinner. Appetizers run $5 to $10.
Hours: Weekdays for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; no lunch hours on weekends. Dinner from 4 to 9 p.m. on weekdays and Sunday. Dinner on Saturday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Telephone: 360-693-4061.
Where: 3214 E. Fourth Plain Blvd., Vancouver.
Health score: Thai Little Home received a score of 20 for its inspection on July 30. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
