Stew makes case for no meat

Sometimes I like to go back to basics. For a relatively new vegetarian like myself — and even for more experienced ones — I think it’s helpful every so often to remember why we made this transition in the first place.

For me, the reasons included (and still include) health, environmental concerns and, though I haven’t talked about this next piece of the puzzle so much, a sense of ethical obligation to the animals of the world. Now, health claims can be controversial, especially because of the seemingly ever-changing nature of nutrition research, so I’ll just report that I feel much better now than I did when I ate meat. When it comes to the environment, there are many complicating factors, but I view vegetarianism as just one more way in which I try to go easy on the planet. (Others include recycling, composting and not owning a car.) And as it concerns those animals, I’m more comfortable than ever stating that my lifelong love for dogs and cats has made me want to extend that compassion to beings that used to show up on my dinner table.

Erica Meier, executive director of Compassion Over Killing, sponsor of a recent DC VegFest (where I spoke and served samples), summarized the reasons succinctly when she and I appeared on a local TV news show: “Vegetarian means being lighter in many ways,” she said. “Having a lighter footprint on our environment. . . . lighter in terms of our health. … And, of course, especially for me — and this is the reason I became vegan — a lighter conscience.”

If anyone is looking for a primer, a good new source is “Plant Power” by Nava Atlas, the prolific author of such books as “Wild About Greens” and the creator of VegKitchen.com.

Besides recounting her own journey, Atlas busts common myths about plant-based eating (it’s not filling enough, you can’t get enough protein, you’ll get weak and sickly) and covers important nutritional considerations (which leafy greens are good sources of calcium and iron, which foods have the most protein and more).

Ultimately, recipes make the best case of all for vegetarianism, and I put one of Atlas’ to the test: How would it go over at a dinner party table occupied almost entirely by carnivores? I chose a slightly spicy stew that uses almond (or another nut) butter for creaminess and packs sweet potatoes, broccoli and kale into a tomato-based broth. Just a few bites in, our conversation turned not to the fact that there wasn’t any meat in sight, but to the kind of stories I like best: about our favorite vegetables.

Southeast Asian-style Vegetable and Nut Butter Stew

6 to 8 servings (makes about 9 cups).

This spicy-as-you-like-it stew binds a medley of vegetables in a broth made creamy with your favorite nut butter. It’s got plenty of options: Feel free to use butternut or acorn squash instead of sweet potato, cauliflower instead of broccoli, cabbage or collards instead of kale.

Serve it over rice.

MAKE AHEAD: The stew can be refrigerated for up to 1 week and frozen for up to 3 months.

Adapted from “Plant Power,” by Nava Atlas (HarperOne, 2014).

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large red onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 medium sweet potatoes (about 1¾ pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

One 15-to-16-ounce can no-salt-added diced tomatoes, with juices

2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger root, or more as needed

3 cups water, or more as needed

3 cups (about 8 ounces) small broccoli florets

1 or 2 small Thai chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped (may substitute other small peppers or ½ to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes)

½ cup smooth almond butter (may substitute peanut or cashew butter)

3 cups lightly packed lacinato kale leaves (about 8 ounces), thick stems discarded, thinly sliced

½ cup chopped cilantro leaves

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, or more as needed

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed

½ cup dry-roasted, unsalted peanuts, chopped, for garnish (optional)

3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, for garnish (optional)

Pour the oil into a soup pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and garlic; cook until the onion has lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add the sweet potatoes, the tomatoes and their juices, the ginger (using more if you want the dish to be spicier) and the 3 cups of water. Let it slowly come to a boil, then reduce the heat so the water is barely bubbling; cover and cook until the sweet potatoes are nearly tender, 12 to 15 minutes.

Add the broccoli and chili pepper (or peppers, if you want the dish to be spicier). Stir in the almond butter a little at a time until it melts into the broth. Cover and cook until the broccoli loses a little firmness, a few minutes.

Stir in the kale and cook, uncovered, until it is wilted and all of the vegetables are just tender but not mushy, 5 minutes. Add a little more water if needed for a moist but not soupy consistency.

Stir in the cilantro, salt and pepper. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve in bowls over rice. If desired, garnish each serving with peanuts and/or scallions.

Nutrition Per serving (stew only, based on 8): 250 calories, 6 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 320 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar