Fried rice a simple comfort food

WASHINGTON — Izakaya Seki’s chahan — fried rice with garlic chips — looks plain and even unassuming, but all it takes is one taste to realize that this is pure comfort food, a perfect balance of flavors and textures in each bite.

At the stove behind the bar, Hiroshi Seki, chef-owner of the restaurant here, makes the technique look simple. In truth there are some tricks: selecting high-quality ingredients, gently frying the garlic chips so they don’t burn, using properly cooked (and completely cooled) rice. “It’s simple but not easy,” he says with a smile.

The result is as sublime as a late-night snack. That makes it particularly appropriate for a Japanese-style pub; however, you might find yourself craving it for breakfast, lunch and dinner, too.

Tip: For the best fried rice, make sure the cooked rice has completely cooled, preferably at least overnight in the refrigerator.

Chahan (Garlic Fried Rice)

1 to 2 servings

From Hiroshi Seki, owner of Izakaya Seki in Washington, DC

1/2 cup plus 2 teaspoons canola oil, divided

4 thinly sliced garlic cloves

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 1/2 cups cooked and cooled Japanese short-grain (sushi) rice

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon sake

1 tablespoon mirin

1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce, or more, to taste

1 tablespoon thinly sliced shiso leaves (or scallions, if you prefer)

1 tablespoon thinly sliced nori (dried seaweed)

Slowly heat 1/2 cup canola oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once it is hot, fry the garlic slices until they are deep golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a paper-towel-lined plate.

Crush the garlic slices into small pieces, and reserve 1 tablespoon to make the rice. (Save the oil for stir-fries and salad dressings, and the remaining garlic for salad topping.)

Pour the remaining 2 teaspoons of canola oil and toasted sesame oil into a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl to coat, then add rice, using a wooden spoon or paddle to break it up. Stir-fry until the rice is coated in the oil and warmed through, a few minutes, shaking the pan to keep the rice moving.

Sprinkle with salt and sugar. Pour sake and mirin around the edges of the pan, and stir them in, then sprinkle in soy sauce, stir-frying just until the rice is coated.

Add the tablespoon of fried garlic pieces and shiso and continue stir-frying another minute or two, until the rice is glossy but dry. Taste, and add a little more soy sauce as needed.

Scrape the fried rice onto a plate, sprinkle it with nori, and serve hot.