Find inspiration in veggies now springing into season

We seasonal-cooking evangelists have one pre-eminent guiding philosophy: Start with the ingredients that beckon to you at your favorite farmers market or farm stand or even your own garden, and let them dictate (along with what you already have in your fridge and pantry) what you cook and eat.

That’s sometimes easier said than done. And by sometimes, I mean in late winter and early spring, when even the most dedicated farmers-market shoppers find it difficult to be inspired by yet another turnip or storage apple.

Now? Inspiration abounds, and if you’ve gotten out of the habit of this more intuitive, relaxed style of cooking, let me suggest that it’s a good time to jump back in. After a slow start, the markets are bursting forth with ingredients that make you forget how dismal the situation was even a month or two ago.

One favorite trifecta of spring produce will always send me into the kitchen: morel mushrooms, asparagus and ramps. Alone, each is worthy of celebration. Together, they layer earthy, grassy, sweet and funky flavors — and make for a combination of textures almost as irresistible as the taste. I’ve combined them in a frittata, in a pasta dish, in tacos, spooned over roasted potatoes, even on sandwiches.

In his new book, “The Broad Fork” (Clarkson Potter), Georgia chef-restaurateur Hugh Acheson calls for them to be stewed with crème fraîche and served over grits in true Southern style. The tang from the crème fraîche (plus a dash of sherry vinegar) might be my favorite touch, adding an accent that rounds out the dish beautifully.

Stewed Morels, Asparagus, Ramps and Creme Fraiche Over Grits

Makes 4 servings.

MAKE AHEAD: The cooked grits can be refrigerated for up to 5 days; warm over low heat, whisking in some water or vegetable broth to return them to creaminess before serving.

Adapted from “The Broad Fork,” by Hugh Acheson (Clarkson Potter, 2015).

1 cup white or yellow corn grits

4 cups water

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup minced shallots

4 ounces (2 cups) fresh morel mushrooms, washed and cut into thick rounds (may substitute another mushroom of your choice)

2 large ramps with greens, chopped (may substitute 1 scallion plus 2 cloves garlic)

8 asparagus spears (woody ends trimmed), cut into 1-inch pieces

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

1/4 cup homemade or no-salt-added vegetable broth (see recipe at washingtonpost.com/recipes)

1/4 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup creme fraiche (may substitute sour cream or Greek-style yogurt)

Freshly ground black pepper

Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Whisk the grits into the water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat; bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add the 1/2 teaspoon of salt, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. You will be moving forward with the rest of the recipe, but what you are looking for in the grits is a velvety-soft polenta texture, a bit thinner than you would envision. (The grits will set up as soon as you put them on the plate.) If you think the grits are too thick, add a touch of water to bring them to the desired consistency.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Once it’s foamy, stir in the shallots. Cook until tender, 1 minute, then add the morels. Cook until the mushrooms smell wonderful, look a little limp and are browning slightly at the edges, 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the ramps and asparagus, then the vinegar; cook briefly, stirring and scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the broth. Taste and season with salt as needed; cook until the asparagus is barely crisp-tender, 3 minutes.

Stir in the thyme, parsley and creme fraiche, and remove from the heat. Taste, and add salt and/or pepper as needed.

Divide the grits among individual plates. Spoon equal amounts of the morel mixture at the center of each portion. Sprinkle with parsley; serve right away.

Nutrition Per serving: 340 calories, 6 g protein, 38 g carbohydrates, 18 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar.