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8 cosmetic procedures for men

The Columbian
Published: March 13, 2015, 12:00am

Shakespeare said clothing “oft proclaims the man.” But for face and body, more and more men are using cosmetic dermatology, albeit without the fervor as their female counterparts.

Washington, D.C.-based dermatologist Terrence Keaney, the founder of W for Men, the world’s first clinical practice dedicated to male dermatology, says he saw a 20 percent increase in male patients from 2013 to 2014 alone.

“Men are becoming what I call ‘cosmetically conscious,’ because of social media and knowing women who’ve done similar procedures,” Keaney says.

Robert Anolik noticed a similar trend at Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York, where he practices with Fredric Brandt, Madonna’s dermatologist.

“Every year I have more men coming into my office for cosmetic treatments,” he says. “These dermatologic procedures are becoming viewed by men as a method of self-enhancement, like eating well, wearing nice clothes, or going to the gym.”

The key difference between the genders, Keaney said, is that “men are more gun-shy.” They’re more comfortable trying procedures that aren’t invasive or time-consuming, with minimal side effects.

Here are eight problem areas that can be addressed during a lunch break. Costs depends on city and dermatologist; these prices are averages provided by the dermatologists featured.

• Love handles and front belly fat

The fix: CoolSculpting is a process that takes advantage of the fact that fat has a slightly lower freezing point than water. The applicator uses vacuum pressure to freeze fat cells — you’ll feel a cold sensation for the first five minutes, then go numb — which are eliminated naturally by your body.

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Consider it “controlled cell death,” says Keaney, as only fat cells are affected. “It’s not a weight-loss treatment, but something great for guys who are in shape and exercise but have a trouble spot.”

The procedure doesn’t work miracles, but Keaney predicts “a 20 to 30 percent improvement in your bulge after one treatment.”

Time: 60 minutes per cycle.

Cost per cycle:$750.

• Thinning hair

The fix: Illumiwave uses “low-level light therapy, so you can actually slow the hair-loss process without exposing yourself to oral or topical medications,” Keaney says. The technology increases blood flow to the hair follicle and decreases the effects of DHT (dihydrotestosterone), the hormone that causes hair loss.

The procedure allows a man to stabilize hair loss and grow new hair simultaneously, but it requires a commitment: Clients are treated three times a week for the first couple of months, twice weekly for the following two months, then weekly for maintenance.

Time: 20-30 minutes per treatment.

Cost per treatment: $100; many practices offer package deals.

• Broken capillaries, redness, or rosacea

The fix: With the Excel V laser, “I’m able to target multiple forms of redness, which typically includes pink discoloration and dilated capillaries,” Anolik says. The laser “targets hemoglobin in a blood vessel, and creates heat to close the vessel off so it eventually goes away.” There are no health risks, since the targeted vessels are “superficial and not medically necessary.” Best results are after three to five treatments, spaced four to six weeks apart.

Time: 10 minutes.

Cost per treatment:$600.

• Facial wrinkles, sun spots

The fix: Clear+Brilliant “refreshes your skin from the inside out,” says cosmetic dermatologist Paul Jarrod Frank, founder of 5th Avenue Dermatology Surgery and Laser Center.

The laser delivers heat within the skin, which triggers damage then “subsequent replacement of damaged skin by microscopic exfoliation” via tiny scabs that eventually slough off. Post-treatment, skin looks red, as if a client has been in the sun, for a couple of hours and feels like sandpaper for a few days. Results can be seen after one treatment, but most dermatologists recommend four to five monthly treatments.

Frank says the procedure won’t cause major swelling or scabbing as does Fraxel, another popular resurfacing laser.

Time: 10 minutes, in addition to 15 minutes of topical anesthesia/numbing cream.

Cost: $600.

• Veiny or mottled hands

The fix: A combination of Radiesse and PicoWay. Hands lose volume and elasticity over time, making underlying veins more prominent. New York City dermatologist Neil Sadick injects multiple amounts of Radiesse, a volumizing filler, under the skin on top of the hands, and gently massages it in. A single treatment can last nine to 18 months.

For age spots and sun damage, Keaney enlists PicoWay, a laser that targets pigment and injures it while leaving the surrounding skin intact. The dark spots will turn darker and rougher as the skin turns over, but will eventually come off like scabs.

“You can get great results in one treatment,” says Keaney, “but you may need one more.”

Time: 10 minutes for Radiesse, 10 minutes for PicoWay.

Cost: $900 per syringe (two are typically used) for Radiesse, $500 for PicoWay.

• Sweaty underarms

The fix: Your face isn’t the only place for the injectable Botox, which blocks nerve signals that lead your glands to sweat.

“This procedure is one of the safest and most effective standards of care for excessive perspiration and for those who are sensitive to deodorants and antiperspirants,” Frank says. A single treatment can reduce sweat for six to eight months and has no negative side effects.

Time: 15 minutes, in addition to 20 minutes of topical anesthesia/numbing cream.

Cost per treatment:$1,200 for both arms.

• Under-eye bags or hollows

The fix: The injectable filler Juvéderm is made up mostly of hyaluronic acid, which your body produces naturally — it’s what keeps your skin smooth and plump. Results are immediately noticeable. Anolik “injects it fairly deep, underneath where the bag is, to help lift it in a broad way so there’s no visible lumps or bumps.”

But clients must return every six months or year to maintain results. Juvéderm does not endorse this procedure as it’s not FDA-approved, but it’s a common practice among dermatologists.

Time: 10 minutes.

Cost per treatment: $800 per syringe; one syringe is used for both eyes.

• Sagging jaw line, turkey neck

The fix: EndyMed is a radio frequency technology that helps tighten slack, loose skin. According to Sadick, “EndyMed heats deep layers of the skin, 1) to tighten the collagen you already have; and 2) to stimulate new collagen production.” One to three treatments may be performed, with a maintenance session every year or two. Numbing isn’t required beforehand, and there’s little discomfort involved.

Time: 15-20 minutes.

Cost per treatment:$450.

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