Surprise gift delivers welcome sunshine: Lemon souffle

March, aptly named, is a slow, obligatory trudge. One morning, the buzzer heralds a box. Small, heavy and postmarked California.

I slit the tape, folded back the flaps and squinted into a blaze of sunshine: seven Meyer lemons, straight from Ann’s tree.

Outside, they were orange-yellow bright; inside they were orange-lemon sweet. I squeezed them down, stirred them thick and poured the brilliant lemon curd into a glass jar. Back then, my children were short and my refrigerator tall. I chose the highest shelf.

Some afternoons, I’d spring open the lid and spoon up one sunny bite. Some, I’d simply gaze at that fat jar of friendship — all mine to savor.

Meyer Lemon Souffles

Prep: 20 minutes; Bake: 9 minutes; Makes: 6 small souffles

Butter and sugar for pans

4 or 5 large Meyer lemons

4 eggs, separated

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 stick ( 1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut up

Butter and sugar six 1/2 -cup ramekins; set them on a rimmed baking sheet.

Zest 2 lemons. Squeeze enough lemons to produce 3/4 cup strained juice.

In a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk together zest, juice, yolks, 3/4 cup sugar and the 1/2 cup butter until thick, 10 to 12 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. Cool a few minutes.

Using a heavy-duty mixer and the whisk attachment, whip egg whites until foamy. Cascade in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue whipping to glossy white peaks, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Whisk a big spoonful of whites into the lemon curd, to lighten it. Using a flexible spatula, fold the curd into the remaining whites — gently, so as not to crush the meringue. Ladle into prepared ramekins.

Slide the sheet of ramekins into a 425-degree oven and bake until golden and puffed, 8 to 9 minutes. Enjoy right away.