The foods of the season sing in versatile green curry paste

As if they are bursting from the earth, the greenest foods are now everywhere: asparagus and peas, ramps and spring garlic, sorrel and onions, bok choys and young kale, and bright, fresh herbs. A spicy green curry paste is one way to make the most of a lot of them. Whir the ingredients together, pack in freezer-friendly containers and you’ll have the basis of a satisfying, fresh-tasting meal.

There are many commercial varieties of curry paste, but I wanted to DIY a pantry (freezer) version that would sing with the flavors of the season. Garlic is always front and center in a store-bought paste, so I opted for spring garlic bulbs and their green scapes. Along with cilantro, plenty of mint and basil boosts the herbal notes.

Curry pastes are shot through with the tingle of floral galangal, but fresh ginger is a suitable substitute. Because the traditional lime leaves can be difficult to find, I used plenty of fresh lime zest and juice instead.

Chilies are essential for both the heat and zesty complexity of traditional curries. My preference is for a combination of assertive Thai chilies and familiar, fruity serranos. Remove the peppers’ seeds, and the paste is mildly spicy, with a family-friendly zing; if you are a heat-seeker, add some seeds to the mix. If red curries are your preference, substitute small red bird chilies and Fresnos or Chinese long red chilies, each one substantially zippier than their green cousins.

Plan a trip to an international grocery store for shrimp paste. Often packed in a small can, it’s an ocher-colored umami bomb. It’s optional in the accompanying recipe, but this standard curry paste flavoring agent adds a subtle undertone. It must be warmed to release its charms; I like to wrap a few teaspoons in a foil packet, then use the oven, the toaster oven or a dry skillet to heat it through. You’ll know when it’s ready, because it releases a serious olfactory insult. Soldier on; it’s worth it.

I experimented with ingredient ratios until I landed on a curry paste that worked for me. It’s anything but traditional, with all those fresh herbs. After I was satisfied, I went rogue, adding whatever green components caught my eye. One of my recent interpretations included sorrel, its lemony green elevating the sour flavors from the lime zest and juice. A handful of peppery arugula went into another one. I can’t resist adding garlic chives, Chinese chives or chive flowers for their sweet, oniony bite. Curry pastes are a timely pantry addition for fast-to-the-table delicious dinners that take full advantage of whatever green is growing.

In full-on DIY mode, I tried the old-fashioned curry paste route, bashing the ingredients in a mortar and pestle. That exhausted me, so I embraced modern convenience and tossed everything into a high-powered blender. (A food processor works, too.) Soon, the chilies, ginger and lemon grass, citrus zest and lavish amounts of green herbs convert to a zingy, smooth blend: an exotic combination celebrating the sweet, sour, salty and bright flavors associated with Thai cuisine.

Right now, early in the season, use this green curry paste to make a sauce for mussels with asparagus, sweet onions and peas. In a few months, stir the paste into a melange of zucchini, green beans, eggplant and tomatoes — with or without shellfish, shrimp, chicken or tofu. You’ll find it’s an adaptable ally in the kitchen.

Spring Green Thai Curry Paste

Five 4-ounce jars (makes 2½ cups).

Stir this bright, tingling, fresh-tasting curry paste into coconut milk, and you’ve got a delicious sauce for chicken, fish, shellfish and as many vegetables as will fit in the pot. Remember to wear gloves when handling chilies. For a less spicy paste, omit the Thai chilies and use only serrano peppers. For a spicier version, use both types of chilies and include the seeds. Traditionalists use a mortar and pestle to pound this blend of chilies, herbs and spices into a paste, but a food processor or high-powered blender (such as a NutriBullet or Vitamix) makes quick work of the entire process. 

MAKE AHEAD: The paste can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days (the color may darken a bit); it can be frozen for up to 3 months.

Shrimp paste is available at Asian markets and some Latino markets.

From Cathy Barrow, the author of “Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving” (W.W. Norton, 2014).

12 green Thai chili peppers (stemmed and seeded), coarsely chopped

12 serrano chili peppers (stemmed and seeded), coarsely chopped as needed

3 medium stalks lemon grass (tough outer layers removed), cut into 1-inch lengths

3 limes, juiced, zest cut into strips with a vegetable peeler (white pith removed)

2 ounces (a chunky 3-inch piece) fresh galangal or ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems, coarsely chopped

1 cup packed mint leaves

1 cup packed basil leaves

3 spring onions, trimmed and chopped (white and green parts)

2 bunches green garlic, chopped (may substitute 2 bunches ramps or 2 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

½ cup water

2 teaspoons shrimp paste (optional)

Combine the green Thai and serrano peppers, lemon grass, lime juice and zest, galangal or ginger, cilantro, mint, basil, onions and garlic in a food processor or high-powered blender. Pulse a few times, then add the fish sauce, salt, cumin, white pepper and water. Puree until smooth.

If using, enclose the shrimp paste in a small piece of aluminum foil and heat it in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat until warmed through; you will smell it when it’s ready. Unwrap and add the warmed shrimp paste to the curry paste. Puree until well combined and smooth.

Pack the curry paste into clean 4-ounce jars or containers.

Per ½ cup: 60 calories, 3 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 650 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Spring Green Thai Curry With Mussels and Asparagus

3 or 4 servings.

Add fiddleheads instead of (or in addition to) the peas. Substitute morels for cremini mushrooms.

You can use clams, shrimp, pieces of cod or halibut instead of the mussels. This curry is adaptable; try it with chicken, too.

Mussels should be rinsed well before cooking, with any beards pulled off. Before cooking, discard any mussels that are open and won’t close tightly when tapped.

Palm sugar is available at Whole Foods Markets, at some Harris Teeter stores and at Latino and international markets.

Serve with rice, if you like.

From Cathy Barrow.

3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil

8 cremini mushrooms, stemmed and quartered

8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

1 cup freshly shelled or frozen/defrosted green peas

½ cup (4 ounces) Spring Green Thai Curry Paste (see recipe)

2 teaspoons palm sugar (see headnote; may substitute light brown sugar)

One 13.5-to-14-ounce can coconut milk (not shaken or blended)

2½ pounds fresh mussels in the shell, scrubbed, beards removed

3 scallions (white and green parts), cut into 1-inch pieces

¼ cup packed cilantro leaves, minced, for garnish

Heat the oil in a lidded straight-sided skillet or pot large enough to hold the mussels over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the mushrooms and cook without stirring for 3 minutes, then stir in the asparagus and peas so that all the vegetables are coated.

Stir in the curry paste and palm sugar, coating the vegetables.

Scoop out the thick, creamy part of the coconut milk in the can and blend that into the curry paste and vegetables. Once it has warmed through, add the remaining coconut milk, the mussels and the scallions. Cover and cook until the mussels have opened, about 4 minutes. (Discard any mussels that have not opened.)

Garnish with the cilantro, if using. Serve piping hot in deep soup bowls.

Per serving (based on 4): 390 calories, 14 g protein, 20 g carbohydrates, 30 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 20 mg cholesterol, 400 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar