A still place in turning world

MARANA, Ariz. — The distinct, bell-shaped mountain rising above the Sonoran Desert northwest of Tucson holds a special power, say those who’ve spent time here — a magnetism that draws you in, sets you apart, even if only momentarily, from a difficult world, and perhaps even heals.

Named Safford Peak by early settlers, this protrusion of rock, scrub and cactus has beckoned visitors for centuries. For nearly 60 years, some of that land has been maintained as a place to hike the desert landscape, meditate, pray or just take time out from life.

That mystique drew me and my wife, Mary, to Sanctuary Cove, a spiritual retreat on the western edge of Marana, a sprawling Tucson suburb. We stayed at the property’s guest cottage, a small, modern structure with amazing views across the Tucson Basin from the front and a large patio in back jutting into the mountain desert.

We reserved for the night of a full moon, expecting moonlight and shadows, perfect for nighttime photography, on the towering saguaros, prickly pear and rocks. Nature gave us a different show. Sheets of rain from a brief afternoon monsoon blurred views of the nearby 3,563-foot peak. Hours later the clouds turned into a powerful storm to the east. Lightning illuminated the Santa Catalina Mountains like a strobe and yellow and white flashes lit up tall thunderheads.

We watched in awe from our cottage porch 17 miles away. We couldn’t hear thunder — just the staccato of crickets and a whispering breeze.

Sanctuary Cove’s website describes its mission as “providing a natural place of peace and unspoiled beauty” offering an opportunity to ” ‘draw apart’ from the intensity of today’s hectic lifestyle.” An entrance sign reads simply “A still place in a turning world.”

That mission has roots in centuries past, when indigenous tribes were believed to have visited, used and traversed the area. Today the property is operated by All Creeds Brotherhood, a nonprofit founded by Elmer Staggs, a World War I veteran who came to Arizona in 1917 to recover from tuberculosis. He homesteaded a large desert parcel outside Tucson, later selling some of it, including 31 acres to the federal government for the adjacent Saguaro National Park. But he retained 80 acres for public use for hiking, meditation and religious services.

Over the years activities have included memorial services, photo shoots, weddings and other events. In addition to a small chapel, an amphitheater that seats several hundred people hosts an annual, nondenominational Easter sunrise service.

A labyrinth, built from desert rocks by former caretakers Chuck Koesters and Annie Bunker, encourages visitors to clear their minds and absorb the desert’s beauty as they walk the circular formation. Trails offer views of Tucson to the right and Marana below. Skilled hikers can tackle rock-faced “Sombrero Peak,” the name locals give Safford Peak.

“I’ve seen mountain lion, desert fox, deer, javelina, bobcat, rattlesnakes, tarantula, Gila monster, coyote, desert tortoise,” said caretaker Amy Langley. “I’ve heard some bobcat screams that will scare the pants off you.”

“At the end of the day when the light is fading, when the sun’s going down, the last light, it’s just beautiful,” Langley said. “So there’s something about that mountain that people are very drawn to.”