This simple Portuguese soup will perk up your cold-weather doldrums

For decades, vegetarians have looked to global cuisines for inspiration.

The pioneer was Anna Thomas, author of “The Vegetarian Epicure,” a 1972 bestseller. As Jonathan Kauffman writes in his captivating new book, “Hippie Food,” at a time when much vegetarian food was brown-on-brown, Thomas “pored over Italian and Middle Eastern cookbooks, in which vegetables were integrated in ways meat-and-potato Americans never imagined.”