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Food & Drink: Bakery makes Padden House home

Chandelier Bakery turns historic site into chic cafe

By Rachel Pinksy
Published: November 30, 2018, 6:03am
6 Photos
Frosted sugar cookies, whoopie pie, and pumpkin scone from Chandelier Bakery.
Frosted sugar cookies, whoopie pie, and pumpkin scone from Chandelier Bakery. Photo Gallery

Monica Kersey, with substantial support from her family, has refashioned the Padden House into a chic bakery and cafe. She remembers visiting this historic house as a child to buy crafts. When she toured it with her husband, Michael, they immediately knew this was the perfect spot for her dream bakery.

On the main floor to the left, a glass case is filled with fresh-baked goodies such as ham-and-cheese croissants ($6), scones ($3 each, cranberry orange, pumpkin or cream), pies, marionberry cream cheese Danishes ($4), tall, frosted cinnamon rolls, cupcakes swirled with frosting, muffins, an assortment of macarons, bars (brownies, lemon pie) and a collection of generously-sized cookies ($2.25) — oatmeal raisin, molasses, peanut butter, snickerdoodle, chocolate marshmallow, chocolate chip, wheat-free monster cookies, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, and vegan chocolate chip. On my visit, the smell of vanilla and cinnamon filled the room, transforming the bakery into Grandma’s kitchen. Kersey said, “Our ovens are never off.”

This is a family business — Kersey’s parents, Russ and Kandis White, help out at the counter, wash dishes and bake. Kersey’s son, Jonah, created the panini menu. Her husband, Michael (known as Jason to family), is responsible for the chili recipe. Her brother, Chris, makes dog treats.

To the right of the staircase, there’s an elegant room filled with cafe tables and chairs with chandeliers bobbing from the ceiling like sparkling earrings worn by a grand dame at the opera. This cozy space with turquoise accents and crisp, black-and-white striped window valances is the perfect spot to catch up with a friend while enjoying breakfast (biscuits and gravy, ham-and-cheese croissants, bacon or spinach quiche), eating lunch (turkey pesto panini, zesty Italian panini, cheese panini or beef chili and a cornbread muffin) or sipping Valhalla Coffee or Smith Tea with a fresh-baked pastry. The cheese panini ($7) with toasted golden sourdough bread loaded with melted Muenster and pepper jack cheese, pesto and a slice of tomato satisfied my autumnal grilled cheese craving.

Upstairs, two cake artists decorate custom cakes. There’s a salon for cake consultation and a display of Chandelier’s custom cakes — ornate multi-tiered wedding cakes, a geode cake with rock candy spilling out like spiky, opulent amethysts.

On my visit, cake artist Victoria Steder was cheerfully working on a Cookie Monster cake while bopping around to big band music. On her work table were slabs of cake, a dozen or so decorated cupcakes and some mini chocolate chip cookies. “It’s so much fun,” she said assembling the manic blue Sesame Street character from bright, sugary materials.

Kersey and Steder enjoy creating unique and personal cakes that fit within a client’s budget. They’ve designed a wide spectrum of custom sugar cookies, cupcakes and cakes, including a Panic! at the Disco album cover for a teenage girl, complete with fondant concert tickets; kayak cookies for a memorial service; and cupcakes for Smiles Dental. These special treats often arouse strong emotions from their recipients.

“I’ve had a few criers,” Steder told me. “I love that.”

I took home a variety of toothsome treats — a ham-and-cheese croissant, a chocolate chip cookie, a marionberry scone and a cranberry orange scone. My plan to just sample each of these goodies rapidly collapsed.

The ham-and-cheese croissant tastes best when served warm so the cheese melts and the pastry crisps. The outside is cloaked in crisp, flaky pastry. The inside is swirled with light, buttery layers entwined with ham and melted cheddar jack cheese.

The large chocolate chip cookie studded with semisweet chocolate chips enveloped by a chewy, buttery cookie is the cookie you hoped was waiting for you when you came home from school. It’s the classic decadent treat baked on a lazy Sunday or at a raucous sleepover — a luscious mound of sweet, salt and butter.

The marionberry Danish’s sumptuous, chewy pastry filled with fruit jam underneath a cream cheese center painted with light tiger stripes of sticky icing is a reminder of how good this pastry can be. The cranberry orange scone has a lovely, rich crumb filled with plump, dried cranberries and zesty orange flavor.

Uber Eats delivery person John Kinkade looks forward to his daily pick up visit. The Kersey-White family makes him feel at home, and visiting Chandelier Bakery energizes him. He shared, “This is my favorite place.” I think most people who pass through the turquoise awning at this charming bakery will feel the same.

If You Go

What: Chandelier Bakery at Padden House.

Where: 5206 N.E. 78th St., Vancouver.

Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Contact: 360-718-2175 or ChandelierBakery.com

Information: Vegan and gluten-free options are available.

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