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May 8, 2021

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Bridal fashions don’t bore at New York shows

Designers push boundaries with color, offbeat looks

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This image released by Vera Wang shows a gown from her bridal collection being modeled in New York.
This image released by Vera Wang shows a gown from her bridal collection being modeled in New York. (Vera Wang via AP) Photo Gallery

NEW YORK — There was a church wedding with a Madonna soundtrack, a sit-down tea at a fancy Midtown hotel, and yards and yards of tulle and trains at April bridal fashion week in New York.

Some highlights:

REEM ACRA

She outdid herself, filling every seat in Midtown’s huge and historic St. Bartholomew’s Church, expanding her guest list to include regular brides.

This collection, a mix of modern mini-dress, shorts looks and more traditional gowns, had a simple celebratory sentiment: Thank you.

Acra was inspired by a message to God she wrote in her Bible 40 years ago, back in 1979 at age 17: “Thank you God you have given me more than I deserve. You have given me more than beauty, you have given me the power to make beauty. Thank you.”

In return, she gave us adorable flower girls in pink holding bedazzled faux candles and messages of love emblazoned on bodices.

In collaboration with her fellow designer of Lebanese descent, Joseph Abboud, she also gave us embellished looks for grooms, including a heavily pearled white tuxedo shirt worn under a tailored navy jacket.

PHUONG MY

Tran Phuong My, originally from Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam, launched her first bridal collection with a challenge to tradition, showing looks in bright red, using long black gloves against white, and fashioning helmet-shaped and flat disc head pieces.

“For this collection we want the woman to be more of a warrior,” she explained in a post-show interview.

“Red is one of the most popular colors for bridal in Asia,” Phuong My said. “A little color doesn’t hurt anyone.”

VERA WANG

She doesn’t often appear personally for private presentations at her bridal design studio, but this time she did. And her couture looks in muted color, visible boning and draped silk tulle lit up with outsize floral embellishment she used magically.

Her statement blooms came at the collars, on sleeves, as petticoats and as corsages. There was a deliberate randomness to her collection, intended to surprise from all 360 degrees. There were long trains and delicate pieces that trailed from the upper arms. Looks in blueberry, pistachio and the lightest of mauves were mixed with blushes and whites.

This was her 59th bridal collection, and she said it’s important to her to reinvent. She’s been experimenting with color for bridal for a while now.

AMSALE

A year after the death of Amsale Aberra, her namesake brand has carried on under the design tutelage of Margo LaFontaine.

This season, the company announced the launch of Amsale x You, a service that allows a bride to “build” her own gown online using couture patterns from the 32-year-old brand’s archives. Starting at $5,000, you can choose a bodice, a skirt and optional belts. The runway show included seven brides who designed the gowns they wore. See Amsale.com for how it works.

This is LaFontaine’s third season at the company, her second show without Aberra’s guidance.

“I keep her with me in everything that I’m thinking and designing and hope to continue to pay tribute to her legacy,” LaFontaine said.

As for the main collection, she focused on draping, hand-pleating and plays on texture. She built texture with embroidery and faux lace. There was a dramatic cape T-shirt on one look and illusion touches Aberra was known for.

The collection was all white. LaFontaine said “a lot of people like to stick with the tradition.”

INES DI SANTO

Fairytales, dreams, clouds, Ophelia. These are just a few of the things that inspired Di Santo’s collection.

She attached a flowing, floral-printed cathedral train to a bandeau and mini-skirt with feather accents, worn with long bell sleeves. One trumpet gown was embellished with silvery stars and came with a bottom done in pleated circles. A strappy backless satin gown was shown with a romantic little tulle stole that fluttered behind, all in white.

“The dress is more than a dress. It’s a personality,” she said.

While she included traditional white, Di Santo isn’t afraid of patterned and color bridal gowns.

“Color is very important for me. Different patterns, different silhouettes, describe who we are,” she said. “I love color. Being Italian, we love color.”

One of her designs was a high-waisted short set with pink floral embellishment, paired with sheer leggings adorned with stars at the thighs.

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