Frontier Public House built for comfort

Why: Frontier Public House in Hazel Dell is a neighborhood pub serving made-from-scratch, Southern-inspired comfort food for lunch, dinner and brunch on the weekends. Live music fills the house a few times a month.

What I tried: My dining companions and I tried the chicharrones and smothered fries to start. I also had the beet, goat cheese and apple salad. For entrees, we had the po’ boy sandwich made with oysters, the chicken ‘n’ dumplings, and the fish and chips.

The chicharrones (deep-fried pork rinds) arrived to the table still popping hot. The smothered fries start with a bed of french fries, which are then topped with cheddar and jack cheeses and doused with rich pepper gravy and garnished with green onion. These were a tasty, flavorful start to our meal.

The salad combined mixed greens, red onions, roasted beets, apples, toasted pecans and goat cheese. Poppyseed vinaigrette was served alongside. I enjoyed the salad well enough, though I would have made it with fewer onions and more beets.

My favorite entree was the chicken ‘n’ dumplings. The hearty portion is the epitome of comfort food. Tender pulled chicken, carrots and celery are surrounded in classic herb-infused soupiness with cracked pepper. Soft, slightly springy garlic dumplings top off the dish.

The fish and chips are made with nicely sized Pacific cod portions covered in a light, tempura-style beer batter and fried to a deep golden crisp. The housemade tartar sauce is the perfect accompaniment for dipping the cod, and the batter does not overwhelm the fish portions.

Shredded lettuce, tomato slices, pickles and pickled jalapenos on a fresh pub roll create the base of the po’ boy sandwich. Three chicken-fried oysters top the sandwich, more akin to a garnish than the substance of it. A slightly spicy remoulade adds a kick to the flavor and brings home the Louisiana influence.

For dessert, we shared the brioche bread pudding drizzled with whiskey caramel sauce. It was delicious. Though we got it to share, nobody wanted to share.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Small plate options include ceviche, New Orleans barbecue shrimp with a chili-vinegar barbecue sauce, fried green tomatoes, wings, grilled steak kebabs and bacon-wrapped jalapenos. Soup is served daily. The salad choices include a Caesar, a wedge and a mixed green. The Frontier burger is made with a half-pound of beef and topped with lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayonnaise. To this base, diners may add cheddar, bleu cheese, pepper jack, a fried egg or bacon-wrapped jalapenos. The brunch menu include steak and eggs, Virginia Girl Benedict, flapjacks, chicken-fried pork chops, and Mexican chorizo and eggs.

Atmosphere: The frontier-style decor combines wood surfaces and rustic decor elements. Custom fixtures add a warm glow, in addition to can and pendant lights. Each end of the space has a backlit wall feature that provides texture and interest. Family dining is separated from the bar with an interior fence at the entry. Seating consists of square and round tables with chairs. A wall bench also runs the length of a side wall.

Other observations: Minors are welcome until 9 p.m. Happy hour is 3 to 6 p.m. daily. There is an outdoor patio for seating, weather permitting. Scheduled events are listed on the website by the month. Frontier also caters events.

Cost: Starters cost $2 to $20. Soup is $3.50 and $5.50. Salads are $4 to $8. Sandwiches and entrees range from $10 to $25. Happy hour items cost $3, $4 and $5. Dessert is $5 to $8. Weekly specials: Taco Tuesdays, $2 each ($3.50 for fish), Bite the Bulleit Wednesdays (burger, fries, Rainier and a shot of Bulleit whiskey) $15, and 50-cent wings on Thursdays. Featured cocktails cost $9.50. Draft beer is $6 ($22 for a pitcher). Bottled beer costs $4. Wine by the glass is $7 to $11. Nonalcoholic beverages are $2.75 to $3.50.