Saturday, September 19, 2020
Sept. 19, 2020

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Food & Drink: Cedar Street Bagel Co. brings New York-style bagels to Camas

New shop uses age-old technique without magical water

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Bagel and lox at Cedar Street Bagel Co. in Camas.
Bagel and lox at Cedar Street Bagel Co. in Camas. (Photos by Rachel Pinsky) Photo Gallery

It’s commonly believed that New York water is required to make a good bagel. Jewish folklore is filled with stories of magic water and talking fishes. They sound ridiculous to a modern audience. Yet some still believe. The New York Times covered a story about a 20-pound carp that spoke Hebrew in a fish market. You won’t find that type of hocus-pocus in this column — at least not this week.

Making a true New York-style bagel with its crisp, shiny exterior and chewy interior does require water, because bagels are traditionally boiled and then baked. As long as it’s boiled, that water can come from the Hudson River or the Columbia River. Cedar Street Bagel Co. in downtown Camas makes New York-style bagels using age-old techniques without any kind of magical New York water.

The bagels start with frozen dough pucks from Seattle Bagel Bakery at Pike Place Market in Seattle. Like most bagel shops in the area, the kitchen at Cedar Street doesn’t have space for dough making. Amber Owens, manager of Cedar Street Bagel Co., searched for places to get bagel dough. When she met with Seattle Bagel Bakery owner A.J. Ghambari and toured his bakery, she knew she’d found her dough as well as a bagel mentor.

The bagels sitting in bins in the glass case are the type found at shops in New York or any Jewish community in the United States, but with some updates.

At very old-school bagel places, you’ll find plain, everything, salt, egg, pumpernickel, onion, poppy seed and maybe cinnamon raisin bagels. Cedar Street includes these flavors along with less traditional options: pizza, jalapeno, French toast and wild everything (everything bagel with cheddar cheese). All bagels are $2 each.

Cream cheese flavors vary from plain to savory options (such as jalapeno or pesto) and sweet spreads (such as maple nut or cranberry orange). Prices range from $1.50 for 2 ounces to $8.95 for 16 ounces. Wild sockeye salmon spread is $5 for 2 ounces.

Gluten-free and vegan meals appear on the menu, which is divided into breakfast and lunch meals (both are available from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.). The breakfast bagels are variations on a bagel with egg, cheese and meat, but also include the classic bagel and lox with cream cheese, lox, capers, pickled red onions and cucumbers. The lunch sandwiches, served on your choice of bagel, are roast beef, turkey cranberry, veggie (pesto cream cheese, lettuce, tomato, avocado, cucumber and microgreens), vegan (vegan chicken salad, vegan mayo, lettuce, tomato, red onion, celery and cucumber), and a Reuben on a pumpernickel bagel.

Bagel-free items such as egg and avocado, egg bake, yogurt parfait, chicken tortilla soup and a winter spinach salad also grace the menu.

Teas with names such as Bluebird Morning and Dream Catcher from Flying Bird Botanicals of Bellingham come in triangular silk bags to bob in a mug of hot water.

Coffee comes from local roaster Nine Bar Coffee Roasters. If you’re interested in some morning libations, order a brunch-friendly adult beverage such as Prosecco, mimosas or beer.

If You Go

What: Cedar Street Bagel Co.

When: 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.

Where: 316 N.E. Cedar St., Camas.

Contact: 360-844-6225; www.cedarstreetbagelco.com

Opening a New York-style bagel and sandwich place in downtown Camas is a dream realized for Marcie and Jeramy Wilcox. When this space opened up, near their coffee shop, Squeeze and Grind, they renovated it to create the perfect spot to grab a bag of bagels and a container of cream cheese or sit and chat with friends over a cup of hot tea and a french toast bagel with cinnamon vanilla cream cheese.

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