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Aug. 15, 2022

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Saffron pasta with ricotta conjures Sardinian fields

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Saffron Pasta (Milk Street)
Saffron Pasta (Milk Street) Photo Gallery

Each November in Sardinia, purple crocus blossoms blanket the rolling fields. It’s a striking sight against a lush green backdrop. Those flowers also provide what locals call “red gold,” or saffron.

Saffron is one of the defining flavors of the Italian island. First cultivated by the Phoenicians, saffron now colors and perfumes numerous dishes, from little gnocchi called malloreddus to gelato and zeppole, a fried dough eaten at Carnival.

Naturally, this being Italy, it also flavors pasta — at times both the noodles and sauce — and we were particularly taken with a vegetarian one at the Sante Rughe restaurant in Gavoi. A few threads of saffron were simmered in milk, which then was mixed with salty ricotta for a rich, no-cook sauce to coat orecchiette.

The version in our book “COOKish,” which limits recipes to just six ingredients without sacrificing flavor, comes together quickly.

Orecchiette With Saffron, Ricotta and Mint

Start to finish: 20 minutes. Servings: 4 to 6

½ cup whole milk

½ teaspoon saffron threads

1 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 pound orecchiette or penne pasta

½ cup chopped fresh mint

1 ounce pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (½ cup), plus more to serve

In a liquid measuring cup, microwave the milk and saffron until warm, about 1 minute; stir, then cool. In a large bowl, whisk the ricotta, saffron milk and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente, then drain and reserve some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the ricotta mixture and toss. Stir in the mint and cheese, then season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with additional cheese.

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