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News / Life / Clark County Life

Roman Holiday: Granita, a centuries-old dessert, offers a taste of Italian summer

By Monika Spykerman, Columbian staff writer
Published: August 9, 2023, 6:02am
4 Photos
With fresh watermelon, lemon juice, sugar and a bit of attention, you can make the Sicilian summer dessert granita.
With fresh watermelon, lemon juice, sugar and a bit of attention, you can make the Sicilian summer dessert granita. (Monika Spykerman/The Columbian) Photo Gallery

Although I was obsessed by all things Italian when I was a teenager and was lucky enough to visit several places in Italy, I never made it to Sicily. Then again, neither did I achieve my other youthful aspiration, which was to become an actress and land a recurring role on the 1980s sitcom “The Facts of Life.” Que sera, sera. Or “quel che sara, sara” as a Sicilian would say.

I watched “Cinema Paradiso,” a 1988 Italian movie set in Sicily, about a million times. I cried openly about what seemed (to my unformed cerebral lobes) the most romantic story ever. I especially loved the shots of the rocky Sicilian coastline with its impossibly azure ocean. I longed to visit the storied island, particularly because I had a desperate crush on an Italian classmate named Salvatore, who also happened to hail from Sicily.

I gave myself an unofficial education in Sicilian geography and culture, eating up everything I could find about any fact remotely related to Sicily. Even so, I never learned until recently that granita, a refreshing dessert made from frozen fruit, was invented in Sicily. In the ninth century, when the island was under Arab rule and hundreds of years before anyone invented electric freezers, some enterprising soul combined fruit, ice and sugar to make what was originally called sharbah, an Arabic word meaning “a drink” (not to be confused with another Arabic word, “sharibah,” which means “his mustache”).

From this root word springs two other words describing cold, fruity desserts: sherbet and sorbet. Sherbet is now distinct from granita in that it contains a small amount of dairy as well as fruit. Sorbet contains no dairy or eggs, though it is sweeter, smoother and denser than granita.

It turns out that making granita is a cinch — or “un gioco da ragazzi,” child’s play — though you must stay near the freezer to break it up with a fork every 30 minutes. That part is actually pretty fun, because then you can sneak bites of granita before anyone else gets to taste it. The most tedious part about making watermelon granita isn’t the ice-breaking. It’s cutting up a watermelon and removing the seeds. My kitchen was awash in gallons of watermelon juice and I’m still finding seeds in my hair.

The recipe I used for inspiration called for a pound of watermelon. How many cups is a pound of watermelon? I have no idea. The Watermelon Board (that’s a real thing, by the way) declares that an average large watermelon is about 20 pounds, including the rind. So I cut up what seemed to be an “average large watermelon,” which resulted in enough de-seeded chunks to fill a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish to about ½ inch below the rim. The chunks need to be partially frozen before blending — not as solid as ice cubes, but not mushy, either. I must emphasize that I did not use the entire watermelon by a long shot and refrigerated the remaining pounds of watermelon to enjoy later.

I left the watermelon in the freezer for roughly an hour then put the chunks in our blender (aka Li’l Crusher) along with ¹/3 cup of lemon juice, ¹/3 cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of vanilla. The vanilla is my own addition because I think a little vanilla belongs in every sweet thing, although you are free to respectfully disagree and leave it out. The amounts of lemon juice and sugar I used were entirely ad hoc, since I didn’t think the amounts recommended by the recipe would suffice for the total poundage of watermelon I was using. Besides, is more sugar ever a bad thing? (Please refrain from answering.) I almost used lime juice in place of lemon juice, because watermelon and lime is such a refreshing combination. Whichever citrus enhancement appeals to you, it adds a necessary, enlivening zing to the granita’s flavor.

I blended about half the watermelon on high and then added more and more chunks until I had blended the contents of the entire casserole dish. I let the blender run for a couple minutes because it was completely full and took a while for all the chunks to become incorporated. I switched it to high and let it run for a minute or so until the consistency was extremely smooth, then poured everything back into the casserole dish.

I put it in the freezer, no small task because we have what refrigeration experts refer to as “the smallest freezer known to humankind.” Our freezer is tall and extremely narrow with only a single shelf. Everything is stacked on top of everything else in a precarious tower, so it’s like playing Jenga to put anything in or take anything out. In the end, I balanced it carefully on top of some frozen chicken breasts, a box of strawberry ice cream sandwiches and a microwaveable package of chicken tikka masala. Then I set the timer for 30 minutes and did other important things, like picking 327 watermelon seeds out of my hair.

Every 30 minutes for about two-and-a-half hours, I pulled the casserole dish oh-so-carefully out of the freezer, ran a fork through every square inch of granita, and slid it oh-so-carefully back in. In about an hour and a half, it looked recognizably like granita. The texture of granita (fine or coarse) is determined by how thoroughly it’s raked with a fork during freezing. I prefer a finer texture, but you might like larger crystals, more like shave ice.

I put a scoop in a bowl and served it to my daughter. She took a tentative bite and then another, eager spoonful.

“It feels wrong to be eating this in a house in Washougal,” she said. “I should be sitting on a terrace overlooking an Italian village.”

My thoughts exactly.

Watermelon Granita

8-9 cups of fresh watermelon chunks

1/3 cup lemon or lime juice

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

Cut a fresh watermelon into chunks and partially freeze (about an hour or an hour and a half). Put the half-frozen chunks in a blender or food processor with ¹/3 cup lemon or lime juice, ¹/3 cup granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon vanilla. Blend on high until smooth. Pour into a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish. Freeze for 2-3 hours, removing from the freezer every 30 minutes to thoroughly break it up with a fork. Granita is ready when it has crystallized to the consistency of coarse salt and can be easily scooped up with a spoon or ice cream scoop. Serve immediately.

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