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Get a feel for food in dark: Dark dining experience now available in east Vancouver at Wyld Pines

By Rachel Pinsky, Columbian freelance food writer
Published: December 15, 2023, 6:08am
3 Photos
Diners in black-out glasses head into the Black Forest Dark Dining Experience at Wyld Pines in east Vancouver.
Diners in black-out glasses head into the Black Forest Dark Dining Experience at Wyld Pines in east Vancouver. (Contributed by Wyld Pines) Photo Gallery

Dark dining began in Paris in the late 1990s, then spread to Zurich, where a blind clergyman used it to convey his sensory experience to those who could see. This led to more dark restaurants in Europe, North America and Asia. Only a few of these establishments are in the United States. One of them is the Black Forest Dark Dining Experience at Wyld Pines in east Vancouver.

Owner Jim Rice dined in the dark while visiting Las Vegas with his family.

“I was the naysayer,” Rice said. “But I did it because the family wanted to do it. I was into it in about 15 minutes, and I was blown away. There were no phones, so we talked to each other the entire time and had debates about the different courses.”

Rice returned from Las Vegas with one thing on his mind: starting a dark dining experience at his business Wyld Pines. This new concept started in spring 2023. The Washington State Liquor and Cannabis Board shut it down soon after. Wyld Pines is the first (and only) restaurant in Washington offering dark dining. State rules require establishments that serve alcohol to have adequate lighting so wait staff can verify ages against ID cards, as well see if customers are becoming overly inebriated. Rice worked with the board to modify his operations to comply with state law. The dining room remains lit, but customers wear goggles that keep out the light.

I went on a Thursday night with a brave friend who agreed to try this odd food experiment with me. Reservations are required, so I made one about a week in advance. The restaurant asked if we had food allergies, dietary needs or preferences, since we wouldn’t be able to see what we would be eating. We entered Wyld Pines, a Pacific Northwest-themed public house decorated with pine trees, bears and sasquatches wearing sunglasses. Our server led us to the dark-dining door, gave us blackout goggles, and instructed us to put our hands on the shoulders of the person in front of us. We slowly snaked into the dining area, felt around for the table and chairs, and sat. The menu is a set seven-course meal ($70 per person) that Chef Brandon Edgerton has carefully crafted for those dining in the dark.

My companion and I were alone in the dark room. A speaker played nature sounds featuring crickets and barn owls. I somehow thought the barn-owl calls were monkey sounds, so I pictured monkeys roaming around the nearly empty space. I felt a kinship with these imaginary primates as I groped in the darkness for my fork and spoon. The place-settings don’t include knives, which I found strange, but is probably a safety measure.

I won’t reveal what we ate because the menu remains the same until March and I don’t want to offer spoilers. I can say that many of the courses were helpfully served in teacups. Although it was awkward to hold the cup while using a fork or spoon to scoop out its contents, the teacup helped with the problem of moving food from the plate all the way up to my mouth. By the time we got the main entrée (which was served on a plate), I was eating like a dog to avoid dropping food all over myself.

Our server helpfully provided a stack of napkins for the saucier items. Hands are very helpful in construing what is on the plate before you. It’s sad that we don’t use them for eating like they do in India, Africa and the Middle East. Touch provides information about texture, temperature, size and shape. At some point, I mostly abandoned my utensils and relied on my fingers to inspect the food and efficiently get it into my face.

My friend who joined me for this meal knows food. She’s made lasagna twice for vacations we’ve taken with our group of friends. I often fondly remember those lasagnas like Proust daydreamed of his beloved madeleines. She was a good dining partner for this experience. Between the two of us, we guessed many of the components of the dishes. After we were seated, a group of six entered and dined nearby. One of the diners at that other table believed he was eating octopus. We knew that wasn’t the case, but it made for interesting eavesdropping.

The seven-course experience took us about an hour. At the end, staff led us out and the chef revealed the menu. Edgerton explained that he tested the recipes with dark dining in mind. Potato croquettes were a no-go because they easily bounced off the table. He did have another spherical item on the menu (which shall remain nameless) because it offered a better center of gravity.

Overall, this was a fascinating experience, ideal for someone as food-obsessed as I am. Using senses other than sight leads to interesting conversation about what each food item might be. Another advantage: Diners are truly present with the food and the people around them, a rare opportunity in a world full of visual distractions.

Dining out guide

Black Forest Dark Dining Experience at Wyld Pines

Where: 2005 S.E. 192nd Ave., Unit 100, Vancouver.

When: Seatings at 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. Thursdays through Saturdays, by reservation.

Contact: 360-210-7735; wyldpines.com/black-forest-dark-dining-experience online.

Health score: Zero is a perfect score; Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For more information, call 360-397-8428.

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Columbian freelance food writer