Korean soup lifts the spirit

If it’s homemade, you really can’t lose with chicken noodle soup, can you?

One of the world’s most beloved comfort foods, a bowl of the nourishing liquid instantly makes you feel better when you’re sick or lonely, and is just so warm and soothing when it’s still a little chilly outside.

It can be ladled into a cup to enjoy on the living room couch, or be paired with bread and a salad for a quick and casual supper. Sliced carrots add a bit of color and crunch and who would say no to a finishing sprinkle of flaky salt.

This deliciously simple recipe from Milk Street for sujebi, a traditional Korean noodle soup, achieves the perfect balance of umami and spice. It combines shredded chicken breast, carrots and sliced zucchini in a rich and satisfying broth flavored with onion, garlic and three staples you’ll find in every Korean kitchen: soy sauce, chili paste (gochujang) and chili flakes (gochugaru).

Fresh, hand-torn noodles that take just minutes to make with flour and water add a lovely chewy texture to the soup, which has a slight (but absolutely terrific) kick. My soup probably had a little bit more chicken than called for since the bone-in chicken breasts were really big, but there still was enough broth to keep the dish from turning in to a stew.

The noodles only need a few minutes to cook in the simmering broth; you’ll know they’re done when they float to the top.

Korean Hand-Torn Noodle Soup with Chicken

Serves 4-6. 177milkstreet.com

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

Kosher salt and black pepper

1 3/4 — 2 pounds bone in, skin-on chicken breasts

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

4 scallions, thinly sliced, whites and greens reserved separately

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided

4- 5 teaspoons gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste)

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, toasted

1/4 teaspoon gochugaru (Korean chili flakes), optional

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4 -inch rounds

1 medium zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise 1/4-inch thick

Make dough: In large bowl, stir together flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Make a well in the center of the flour and add 1/3 cup water.

Using a silicone spatula or wooden spoon, begin incorporating the flour by starting at the center and gradually drawing in more, until a shaggy dough forms. Don’t add more water even if it feels dry at first; it will hydrate during kneading and after a few minutes become supple and tender.

Using the heel of your palm, knead the dough in the bowl, swiping along the sides to incorporate dry bits. Lightly flour the counter and turn the dough onto it.

Lightly flour your hands and knead until dough is smooth, about 4 minutes. Form dough into a bowl, wrap in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature while you make the soup.

Make soup: In large pot, combine 2 1/2 quarts water, chicken, onion, scallion white, garlic, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, cover partially and simmer until a skewer inserted in the thickest part of the chicken meets no resistance, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together scallion greens, remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, gochujang, sesame oil, sesame seeds and gochugaru, if using. Set aside.

When chicken is done, transfer to large plate. Add carrots to broth and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally until carrots are tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, use 2 forks to shred the chicken into bite-sized pieces; discard the skin and bones.

Unwrap the dough. Working beside the pot, hold dough in one hand. With your other hand, pull and stretch small sections of the dough, flattening it between your thumb and forefinger, then tear off a piece roughly 1 1/2 inches long. Drop the piece into the broth.

Continue until you have used all the dough. Stir in the zucchini and shredded chicken. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender and zucchini is tender-crisp, about 3 minutes.

Off heat, stir in the gochujang-sesame mixture, then taste and season with salt and pepper.