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Teen skin care: Less is more, Vancouver dermatologist says

Doctor says young people don’t need lots of products

By Chrissy Booker, Columbian staff writer
Published: March 19, 2024, 6:09am

From serums to fancy moisturizers and creams, skin care routines among teens have become increasingly more complicated, but Vancouver dermatologist Dr. Jessica Smith believes less is more when it comes to skin.

“You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a good skin care routine; you don’t need to do 12 steps. It’s as easy as washing the face once or twice a day and using sunscreen and moisturizer. It shouldn’t take very long,” Smith said.

Still, teens are becoming increasingly obsessed with skin care, according to a 2023 survey from investment bank and financial services company Piper Sandler that assessed spending patterns, fashion trends and media preferences.

Partially fueled by the influence of social media, the average spending on skin care, cosmetics and fragrances among teens increased by 19 percent last year, according to the survey.

About 1 in 3 teens say they’re on YouTube or TikTok several times per day, according to a Pew Research Center poll. Almost 1 in 5 say they’re on it constantly, which helps drive demand for products.

While multistep skin care routines have become increasingly popular, Smith, who practices with Kaiser Permanente Northwest, warns against teens using products that are better suited for mature skin.

The fancy packaging of some skin care products can easily attract teens, Smith said. She said she believes social media and influencers have changed the way teens view skin care and beauty in general.

“Social media can trick young people into thinking that to look our best, we need to do the most. Marketing tells us that we need these toners, serums, moisturizers, cleansers, creams, sunscreens — every day, twice a day. But the truth is that young skin does not need pricey, heavy creams designed for mature skin, and some products can harm young skin,” she said.

Children’s skin is more sensitive than most adults’ skin. Certain products can break down the skin barrier, causing irritation, dryness and even acne breakouts. Smith said a child’s skin care routine should be basic: a daily bath with a gentle cleanser, followed by an oil-free moisturizer. For people with acne-prone skin, she recommends a medicated face wash, along with an oil-free moisturizer.

Smith said parents should pay attention to skin care labels and make sure their children are using products that are creamy, fragrance-free and additive free.

Teens should avoid products that use peptide growth factors, synthetic dyes and fragrance.

“Teen skin is just very immature. The way that I practice is less is more and that’s for kids, teens and adults, as well. You want to really look for products that have the least amount of ingredients in them,” Smith said.

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