Why: With nearly every entree going for $7.95, and happy-hour discounts on appetizers and drinks from 2-9 p.m., Pho DaLat III offers an affordable cultural excursion for those who may not be familiar with Vietnamese food.
Sophia Wang, Pho DaLat’s owner, calls her restaurant “The House of Beef Noodle Soup,” and with good reason. Pho is a Vietnamese soup generally defined by its heavy flavored beef broth, a heap of vermicelli-like rice noodles at the bottom, and a variety of available meats. Often the meat is sliced into paper-thin sheets, then cooked instantly by the boiling-hot broth.
Pho DaLat III also offers a variety of other dishes that hint at the many cultures that have influenced Vietnamese cuisine. Banh Xeo, a crispy rice flour crepe stuffed with shrimp, pork and mung beans, shows how the country adapted French colonial cuisine to national tastes. Bun Xao Chay, stir-fried tofu and vegetables over rice noodles, brings Vietnamese cooking techniques to a dish that would look familiar in China.
Atmosphere: Located on a busy stretch of Fourth Plain Boulevard in a neighborhood filled with fast food and immigrant-run dining options, Pho DaLat III fits right in to its neighborhood. Its interior is functional and fairly plain, though including bamboo and other plants, art — including a large Buddha figure — and the red-and-green tables and chairs infuse the room with hints of Vietnamese culture.
On a recent weeknight visit, the restaurant was nearly empty, though several Vietnamese-speaking diners stopped in to gulp down large bowls of pho and speak with the owner and kitchen staff.
What I tried: I had the Bun Xao Chay, the tofu and vegetables over thin rice noodles. My dining companion ordered Pho Tai Gau, pho served with top round steak and lean brisket. We shared an appetizer of vegetable egg rolls. I also ordered a smoothie-like beverage, while my companion had unsweetened Vietnamese coffee.
Our drinks were hearty and satisfying. I was unfamiliar with jackfruit, but ordered the beverage after Wang said the fruit was in season. Its flavor was sweet, almost banana-like. Vietnamese coffee is often served with condensed milk, which sets it apart from Thai coffee, served with coconut milk. But it can also be ordered black for a murky espresso-like beverage. The unsweetened coffee was dark and thick, though not as heavy as we expected. Wang later told us that she’d watered it down some, worried that the dark beverage would keep us up all night.
The egg rolls were served hot and fresh just a few minutes after we placed our orders, and had a nice crispy exterior with a starchy filling. They were not greasy, which is always a plus. They come with a mild fish sauce, and a spicier soy-based alternative is available on request.
The tofu dish was served with vegetables that had been cooked just enough to bring out their flavors, while each bite still had a bit of snap. It was dressed in a subtle sauce that imparted hints of soy sauce and ginger, topped with toasted peanuts, and a sprinkling of cilantro added more flavor. But the broccoli, bok choy and other vegetables were center stage in this dish, which highlights the Vietnamese culinary focus on fresh, in-season produce.
Pho, though, is what defines this restaurant. The soup is served in huge tureens and is hearty enough to fill the bellies of all but the hungriest eaters.
White and green onions floated on the surface of the Pho Tai Gau, while thin-sliced ribbons of beef danced in the soup above a heap of rice-based noodles. The beef was tender and mostly lean, with occasional ripples of fat.
Pho is served alongside a plate heaped with bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeño pepper slices and a slice of lime.
“Adding those things to the soup allow you to customize the flavors and texture to your taste,” said Lana Vu, a Vietnamese-American friend who helped me understand the dining experience. Crisp sprouts can provide a nice contrast to the warm soup, and can be requested lightly steamed for diners who don’t want chilled sprouts to cool the broth. The lime, pepper and basil allow diners to tweak an already-flavorful dish to make it just right.
Highlights beyond what I tried: In addition to a wide array of beef cuts, pho can be ordered with chicken, fish or shrimp, and Pho Chay is a vegetarian option. The menu also offers an array of nonsoup entrees served with rice or noodles.
Though there’s no dessert menu, Vu recommends treating many of the beverage selections as dessert options. In addition to the jackfruit smoothie, a number of other fruits can be blended into cold beverages, including mangoes and durian. Lemonade is offered American-style or salted. A variety of other drinks are available for the adventurous diner, including a salted plum beverage and one with fresh egg and condensed milk.
Other observations: We were promptly seated when we arrived and owner Wang, our server, was attentive without being pushy as she took our orders. The food came out quickly. Once we’d been served, however, Wang seemed to disappear. After waiting a while for a check, we finally approached the counter to pay for dinner. It’s fairly typical to get your check at the counter, rather than the table, at Vietnamese restaurants, Vu told me later.
We were given chopsticks and soup spoons, but no knives and forks. Diners who need Western utensils should be prepared to ask.
(The “III” in Pho DaLat III is because family members own two other restaurants of the same name, both in Oregon.)
Cost: Most appetizers are $3.95-$5.95, with a few going up to $8.95. Entrees are $6.95-$8.50. Soft drinks are $2, with specialty beverages $2.75-$3. A current special gives a half-off discount on appetizers and drinks from 2 to 9 p.m.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day.
Telephone: 360-693-8570.
Where: 2904 E. Fourth Plain Blvd., Vancouver.
Health score: Pho DaLat III received a perfect score of zero on its Dec. 20 health inspection. For information about these inspections, call Clark County Public Health at 360-397-8428.
