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Salmon that comes close to foolproof

The Columbian
Published: October 28, 2014, 12:00am

Skeptics, stand down. You’ve proved, over the life of this column, that no recipe is truly foolproof. But for those who have doneness issues with salmon, this preparation deserves its name. The oil underneath, a moist and herby coating on top and a low oven temperature join forces to make this fail-safe.

Serve with a mash of skin-on potatoes.

Foolproof Salmon Baked With Olive Oil and Herbs

4 servings

Adapted from “The Kitchn Cookbook: Recipes, Kitchens & Tips to Inspire Your Cooking,” by Sara Kate Gillingham and Faith Durand (Clarkson Potter, 2014).

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

One 1 1/4-pound skin-on salmon fillet, preferably center-cut

Flaked sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 large shallot (1 1/2-ounce lobe)

1/4 cup loosely packed dill fronds

Leaves from 4 to 6 stems flat-leaf parsley or leaves from 3 stems tarragon

1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Pour 1/4 cup of the oil into a baking dish just large enough to hold the salmon. Lay the salmon in the dish, skin side down. Season it liberally with salt and pepper.

Coarsely chop the shallot and dill (together is okay) and place them in a mini food processor, along with the parsley or tarragon leaves. Use a Microplane zester to grate the zest of the lemon directly over the bowl of the food processor. Pulse until finely chopped, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Pulse just long enough to create a coarse paste. Spread the paste over the top of the salmon in the baking dish.

Bake for about 25 minutes. To check for doneness, insert the tines of fork into the thickest part of the fish; the flesh should flake easily. If it doesn’t, bake for 2 or 3 minutes.

Slide a wide, thin spatula under the salmon to transfer it to a cutting board. Cut crosswise to create 4 equal portions; transfer to plates and serve warm.

Per serving: 270 calories, 28 g protein, 2 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, 130 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar

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