Why: Don & Jo’s Drive-In opened in 1968. Although Don and Joanne Zumstein have since retired, their son Mike and his wife, Connie, kept the Duluth restaurant in the family by purchasing it in 1982 and continue the tradition to this day. Diners can eat in the restaurant or use the drive-up window for convenience. Homemade soup, chili, burgers, and milkshakes are the mainstays of the menu.
What I tried: I had the No. 1 combination, which includes a quarter-pound cheeseburger, fries and a drink. I also sampled the soup of the day, which was clam chowder, and a chocolate malted shake.
The cheeseburger was made with a large sesame seed bun, the freshness of which I noted right away. The quarter-pound beef patty was juicy and extended to the edge of the bun, ensuring meat in every bite. Crisp, iceberg lettuce and a sweet, deliciously ripe tomato gave it added appeal. The cheese slice was a tad undersized for the burger.
The french fries were the frozen, crinkle-cut type, fried to a light finish and left to be salted at each diner’s discretion.
I found the clam chowder to have a pleasant texture that was neither too soupy nor too starchy, with a generous amount of cubed potatoes amid the bits of clam. The flavor was appetizing and hearty. The chowder came with a few packs of crackers as well.
The chocolate malted shake had a scrumptious Whoppers candy flavor, and the shake’s consistency made it easy to drink with a straw.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Vegetable beef soup is on the menu every day, and the soup of the day varies between chicken noodle, tomato noodle, navy bean and ham, split pea and ham, and clam chowder. Burgers include a fish burger, a chicken burger and a Garden Burger in addition to beef burgers. French fries, tater tots and onions rings are on the menu. Other dining options include a grilled cheese on Texas toast, cod and fries, chicken strips, a patty melt and a chili dog. Don & Jo’s also has 20 different milkshake flavors to choose from.
Atmosphere: Don & Jo’s harkens back to a simpler time when fast food was less habit and more fun. The dining room is wrapped in wood paneling, and seating is a mix of booths and chairs. There are a few tables outside that are shaded by cheery, red umbrellas. The outdoor menu board is a blast from the past, and the order speaker at the drive-thru has poor sound quality. Overall, the restaurant is tidy and isn’t ashamed to show its age, which gives it genuine charm.
Other observations: I found the service friendly and not rushed. As I sat eating my burger, I thought of In-N-Out, which opened its first store in 1948 and has grown up with the times to become an icon in the industry. Don & Jo’s, though 20 years younger, is at the other end of the spectrum, representing an era, holding fast to an original identity, and an icon in its own right. It’s hard to drive by without giving in to the curiosity of finding out what makes it so special that it has prospered all these years.
Cost: Combinations are $7.66 to $9.29. Burgers a la carte cost $3.79 to $5.99. Soup is $2.99 for a cup and $3.99 for a bowl. Deli sandwiches are $5.99 or $3.29 for half a sandwich. Other meal options range from $2.39 to $7.99. Kids meals cost $4.50 and $4.75. Milkshakes come in 16-ounce, 20-ounce, and 32-ounce sizes for $3.99, $4.69, and $7.99, respectively.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Where: 21903 N.E. 10th Ave., Duluth.
Contact: 360-887-8111 or www.donandjosdrivein.com
Health score: Don & Jo’s received a score of 5 on June 3. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
