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News / Life / Clark County Life

Paul’s home of American diner classics

Longtime Vancouver eatery has aged gracefully

By Karen Livingston, for The Columbian
Published: November 6, 2015, 6:07am
4 Photos
A Monte Cristo sandwich is paired Oct. 29 with potato salad, soup, a green salad and corn bread at Paul&#039;s Restaurant in Vancouver.
A Monte Cristo sandwich is paired Oct. 29 with potato salad, soup, a green salad and corn bread at Paul's Restaurant in Vancouver. (Amanda Cowan/The Columbian) Photo Gallery

Why: Paul’s Restaurant has been open for 40 years serving breakfast, lunch and dinner in west Vancouver. Open seven days a week, the family-friendly establishment offers an American diner menu full of classics.

What I tried: I had the Monte Cristo sandwich, a fresh green salad and the soup of the day, which was navy bean with ham. My dining companion settled on the grilled chicken sandwich, which is made on a toasted bun and includes tomato, leafy green lettuce and pickles. He chose french fries to accompany the sandwich.

After trying the soup, I decided if nothing else brought me back, this would. It was just like Mom’s — tender beans, meaty pieces of ham, carrot, onion and a touch of celery in a soupy bean broth that was not too salty.

The salad was ice cold. It consisted of an iceberg lettuce salad mix with purple cabbage and carrots. It was topped with kidney and garbanzo beans, sliced red onions, red beets, cucumbers and croutons.

Dining Out Review: Paul’s Restaurant

Hours: 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.

Where: 1800 Broadway, Vancouver.

Contact: 360-694-3552 or www.paulsrestaurantwa.com.

Health score: Paul’s Restaurant received a score of 10 on July 24. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

I found the Monte Cristo sandwich good, but it lacked the last two steps of traditional preparation, the egg dip and deep fry, which I think makes it divine. The construction of the sandwich, with its three slices of Texas toast, meat and swiss cheese, made it a perfect candidate, too. I would love to see this sandwich prepared this way and served with a dusting of powdered sugar and pure maple syrup for dipping.

My dining companion thoroughly enjoyed his chicken sandwich. He noted that the basic elements without any condiments were what made it shine. The french fries were basic restaurant fries, deep fried to a golden finish and lightly salted.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Salads include a taco salad and a chef’s salad. Chili is on the menu, as is clam chowder. Soup is homemade daily. The French dip sandwich sounded good. Some other classic choices include hot corned beef on rye and a roast beef. You can get chicken fried steak at Paul’s as well as an 8-ounce top sirloin steak. Breakfast options include omelets, pancakes, waffles and egg-and-meat breakfast combinations. Pigs in a blanket and oatmeal are also on the menu. I thought the blueberry pancakes sounded delicious.

Atmosphere: The space is divided into the lounge and the restaurant, which are separated by an open foyer where there are a few tables and chairs set for dining. Seating consists of tall, cozy booths and diner-style stools at a long counter. Oak-paneled walls complement shades of green on the upholstery, and shiny brass fixtures and stained and etched glass features on interior walls bring a touch of Victorian charm to the space.

Other observations: The waitstaff was attentive and made us feel as welcome as regular customers. This, in conjunction with the relaxing, cozy atmosphere and food quality, convinced us that we need to return for breakfast and give that a try. This is one of the few older restaurants that I have visited that has aged with grace. It is clean and has a special charm of its own.

Cost: Soup is $1.95 for a cup and $2.45 for a bowl. Salads are $2.75 to $6.95. Hot and cold sandwiches range from $4.25 to $8.75 and are served with french fries or potato salad. Burgers cost $5.75 to $6.95. Dinner items are $6.25 to $9.25. Desserts are $2.50 to $2.95. Breakfast ranges from $3.50 up to $7.95 with sides between $1 and $3.15.

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