Feral Public House brews up tasty dishes

Why: Feral Public House opened in July and is an extension of Heathen Brewing Co., which is all about using local ingredients and small-batch craft brewing. Feral is also a family-friendly establishment open for lunch, dinner, and happy hour seven days a week, with a menu that incorporates brew or cider in many of the items.

What I tried: I had the beer cheese soup made with Arson Amber, Tillamook cheddar, cream and spices, and the pear salad, which consisted of a large bed of arugula tossed in a hazelnut dressing and topped with heirloom cherry tomatoes and spiced hazelnuts. My dining companion had the blackberry pork tenderloin, which is pan roasted and coated with a blackberry chipotle gastrique. The pork is sliced in medallions and placed atop a bed of garlic mashed potatoes and bacon brussels sprouts. We started our meal with the Celtic eggs, also known as scotch eggs. Each contained a sambal pickled egg with a generous layer of ground pork around it and was surrounded by a deep, golden-fried panko crust. The mustard sauce for dipping was mixed with cider, which gave it extra bite. Any pickling of the egg was hard to detect in addition to any amount of chili paste (sambal). The sausage contained quite a bit of gristle, and I encountered a small bone fragment as well. I brought this to the attention of the waitress and she deducted $3 from the $8 dish price. Overall, they were not as flavorful as other varieties that I have had.

Fresh arugula is showcased in the pear salad and the other ingredients complement the spicy nature of this popular salad green with a mellow medley of sweet, nutty, and sour.

I found the beer cheese soup a delicious balance of beer and cheddar, with the cream allowing a smooth blend of the two. The warm, slightly toasted bread served with the soup was perfect for dipping in it as well as sopping up the last, which the spoon could not get.

My dining companion said the pork tenderloin was expertly cooked and found the flavor of the gastrique unique. The brussels sprouts were cooked to a very soft finish and the garlic mashed potatoes were almost overwhelmed by the gastrique from the pork.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Mussels and the Promiscuous Clam consists of Washington mussels, steamer clam, Promiscuous Blond Ale, heirloom cherry tomatoes, garlic, fresh herbs, cream, and butter. Mike’s Carolina Yard Bird sandwich is made with house-smoked chicken, IPA barbecue sauce, Heathen Ginger Beer and apple slaw. The beer-braised beef ribs are de-boned and slow cooked for six hours in spices and beer. They are served with beer-caramelized onions, garlic mashed potatoes, and green beans. Sunday brunch options include a Morning After Pie made with a hand-tossed beer crust, savory country sausage gravy, scrambled eggs, chopped ham, bacon, cheddar cheese, onion, and parsley.

Atmosphere: Wood surfaces are paired with black, and a dark, metal, geometric-inspired partition separates the bar and general dining areas. The ceiling is painted black. Large street-side windows allow a lot of natural light in during the day, but can lights and a line of amber-colored pendant lights above booth seating is all there is for evening. A red underglow light at the bar adds ambiance without casting a significant amount of additional light in the space. A private event room off one side of the bar is accessed through a large, wooden, sliding door. Several large-screen TVs provide entertainment. Outdoor seating is at the entrance on the sidewalk.

Other observations: The wait staff was friendly, attentive, and knowledgable about menu items. Feral Public House is consistent with Heathen Brewing’s branding. The menu offers a substantial selection of food and brew options.

Cost: Happy hour menu items range from $3 to $6, and beer and wine are $1 off. Sunday brunch selections range from $2 to $13. Appetizers range from $3 to $14. Soup costs $5 for a mug and $7 for a bowl. Salads are $8 to $10. Twelve-inch pizzas cost $12 and $16. Burgers and sandwiches start at $9 and top out at $15. Entrees are $8 to $25. Kids’ meals (12 and under) are $6. Non-alcoholic beverages which include Coke products, kombucha, Heathen Root Beer, and a root beer float cost $2.50 to $5.