Angel’s transcends simple doughnuts

Why: Angel’s Donuts & Ice Cream has been in business in Portland for 13 years. In May, Angel’s opened up another shop in Vancouver. The name is just a taste of what Angel’s offers. With burgers, breakfast sandwiches and traditional sandwiches, there’s more than meets the eye.

Atmosphere: The shop occupies a large end space in a strip mall, which offers plenty of seating if you want to bring the whole family. The decor is minimalist and has an old-time soda shop vibe, without all the clutter. An electric fireplace and a large screen TV sit against the back wall. Seating consists of contemporary style tables and chairs. Bakery cases full of doughnuts and ice cream freezers full of Umpqua brand ice cream provide the delineating line between the ample food-prep area and the customer space. Behind the food-prep area is another room where the doughnuts and baking takes place, with yet another room off the end of the dining area that is full of supplies. Large screen TVs hang above the counter, which scroll through menu options and more information; paper menus are available on the counter top, as well.

What I tried: I had the Philly cheesesteak and a mango Italian soda for my lunchtime visit, and I chose a baker’s dozen to take home.

The hoagie bread used for the cheesesteak was fresh. The thinly sliced steak and grilled chopped onions and bell peppers modestly filled the roll. I requested pepper jack cheese, which added a melty goodness to the sandwich. Overall, the sandwich was tasty and satisfying and exceeded my expectations for a doughnut shop sandwich. The Italian soda was made with an astute balance of ingredients, and I found it refreshing and not overly sweet.

For my baker’s dozen, I selected a few buttermilk and old fashioned glazed, cake, cream and jelly filled, a French cruller, a cider cake, and a deep fried banana that resembled a buttermilk doughnut. I found the doughnuts to all have unique characters: The glazed had a double-dipped presence that made it extra sweet, the cider had a tangy aftertaste, and the deep-fried banana, made with banana puree, was somewhat doughy and tasted like mashed bananas. Doughnuts are loved by almost everyone. I am confident that if you are among those people, you will find satisfaction at Angel’s. If you are not, there are plenty of other options to please.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Fancy doughnuts include cinnamon rolls, apple supremes, fritters, Angel’s buttermilk pies, and bacon-bit-topped bars. Breakfast sandwiches are available with diner’s choice of bread (bagel or English muffin), meat, egg and cheese. Among the burger options are a spicy J burger, a California chicken, a veggie, and the Angel’s burger stacked with cheese, bacon, ham, egg and a sausage patty. Traditional style sandwiches are made with diner’s choice of meat, cheese and bread with traditional toppings. Ice cream is served in a waffle cone or a bowl. Sundaes, a banana split, shakes, floats and smoothies are on the menu as well.

Other observations: The waitstaff is friendly and polite. The atmosphere is comfortable, clean, and nice and warm. The sugary aroma of sweets lingers in the air. Business hours are conducive to satisfy cravings at almost any hour.

Cost: A baker’s dozen costs $13.50. Standard doughnuts are $1.25 to $1.45, and fancy ones are $1.55 to $2. Doughnut holes are 30 cents each, $1.50 for six, and $2.50 for a dozen. Croissant varieties are $1.65 to $2.65. Breakfast options are $4 for bagel sandwiches and $2.25 for bagels and cream cheese or butter. Tater Tots are $2. Hot dogs are $1.75 and Polish dogs are $2.25. Sides are $2 each. Burgers range from $4.95 to $7.50. Sandwiches are $5.50. The Philly cheesesteak is $6.95. Espresso drinks come in 12-ounce, 16-ounce, and 20-ounce and range from $1.50 to $5. Italian sodas are $2.95 and $3.40. Ice cream options start at $1.50 and top out at $6.95.