Omy’s Cafe makes diners feel at home

Why: Omy’s Cafe is one of those establishments that does not particularly beckon to passers-by with an impressive street-side presence, but when you step inside, the quaint and homey atmosphere becomes a reprieve that makes you want to linger a while. Omy’s welcomes the whole family for breakfast and lunch, seven days a week, with classic American diner choices.

What I tried: I settled on a pancake with bacon and an egg, and my dining companion had the breakfast muffin sandwich with sausage.

The pancake had a light, golden crust that yielded to a dense, springy center, ideal for soaking up the melted butter and syrup. The egg, which I requested scrambled, was a true, singular egg that was perfectly cooked. The bacon was fresh from the frying pan and pleasantly meaty.

My dining companion’s meal consisted of a lightly toasted English muffin, sausage links, an egg with cheese on top and a sizable portion of crisp, browned hash browns. The sandwich ingredients were served alongside in a deconstructed manner. She found the combination tasty and satisfying. Neither of our meals were greasy, and both had reasonably sized portions, priced within reason.

Atmosphere: The cafe has gained a fresh, brighter coat of paint since my last visit a few years ago, which suits it perfectly. Gray wainscot is topped with ivory walls that are tastefully and plentifully decorated with a potpourri of items that are mostly fishing themed. In the center of the space is a three-sided bar with fixed bar-stool seating. Tables and chairs fill in the rest of the dining area without feeling too crowded.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Omy’s Platter is sure to please a hearty appetite. It includes bacon, ham, sausage, cheese, onion, green pepper and tomato mixed with crispy hash browns, smothered with country gravy, topped with two eggs and served with toast. Menu items for a smaller appetite also are available. A 10-ounce ribeye is among the entree selections, which are served with two eggs, hash browns and diner’s choice of toast or pancakes. Several omelette options include a taco omelette, a mushroom Swiss omelette and a Denver omelette. Lunch burgers include a jalapeno spicy burger and a chili burger. Sandwiches include a French dip with au jus, a Reuben and a Philly cheesesteak. Diners also may build their own sandwich from a selection of meats, cheeses, breads and condiments.

Other observations: The service was friendly and attentive, and the food was no-frills and satisfying. I felt especially at home surrounded by the outdoorsy fishing theme, which brought back fond memories of the many early morning fishing trips with my father when I was a kid.

Cost: Breakfast entrees cost $7.50 to $12.75. Omelettes are available in three-egg versions for $7 to $11.25 or six-egg versions for $8.50 to $13.25. Omy’s Platter, served skillet style, costs $11.75 for a half-size or $13.50 for a full-size. Signature selections are $5 to $9.50. French toast and pancakes range from $3.25 to $6.75. Smaller appetites may combine a few options from specified selections for $7.75. Burgers are $8.50 to $12. Sandwiches cost $6.50 to $10. Cups of soup, chili or clam chowder cost $4.50 to $5.25, and bowls are $5.25 to $5.75. Fish and chips are $10.75 for three pieces, and chicken strips and fries are $10.50 for three pieces. Salads range from $4 to $10.25. Breakfast and lunch options for children and seniors do not exceed $7.

Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Sunday.

Where: 10915 N.E. Fourth Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Contact: 360-891-7721. Omy’s Cafe is also on Facebook.

Health score: Omy’s Cafe received a score of 15 on Oct. 20, 2015. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.