Catedral Tapatia continues a delicious tradition

Why: Catedral Tapatia Authentic Mexican Food & Cantina is a large-scale, family-dining Mexican restaurant with an extensive menu offering traditional dishes. It also has a full bar and a place for karaoke enthusiasts.

What I tried: I had the Chili Colorado, and my dining companion had the chicken tortilla soup. For dessert, we tried the Xangos.

Premeal chips and salsa were served promptly after we were seated. The chips were standard bag variety, and the salsa was tasty and slightly spicy.

Our entrées arrived without much wait. The Chili Colorado is served with a choice of flour or corn tortillas. I chose flour. The tortillas were fresh and kept warm in a tortilla bowl. The rice was basic Spanish rice without vegetables, and the refried beans were topped with melted cheese. Neither was unappetizing, but I have had better. The Chili Colorado is made with cubes of top sirloin in a traditional sauce. I enjoyed the tenderness of the mostly very lean meat.

My dining companion’s chicken tortilla soup was chunky instead of cooked down. Bite-size pieces of grilled chicken breast sat in a thin broth amid cubes of avocado and strips of crispy tortillas, all sprinkled with seasonings and cheese. My dining companion said the soup was not very flavorful and added salt and pepper.

Both of our entrées arrived hot, but mine cooled quickly because the plate was not heated as plates often are at Mexican restaurants.

I was thrilled to see the Xangos on the dessert menu. This dessert is made by wrapping a piece of cheesecake in a tortilla, then frying it. It is finished with a dusting of cinnamon and sugar, a drizzle of honey and strawberry purée, whipped cream, and a cherry.

A few years ago, a restaurant that specialized in Buffalo wings offered this same dessert. I tried it, and I was hooked. At Catedral Tapatia, I was hoping for a similar experience of that flaky tortilla holding a delicious, warm, gooey, cheesecake center. Unfortunately, the cheesecake in the center of Catedral’s version still had cheesecake consistency, because it was still chilled. It was not bad, but it was a disappointment, since I had what I consider to be the best to compare it to.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The menu is several pages of options divided into the familiar categories typically found at a full-service Mexican restaurant. House specials include a Steak a la Mexicana: a fried top sirloin with onion and green peppers and covered in a Spanish sauce. Meats include chicken, pork and beef, shrimp and other seafood. Vegetarian dishes include veggie fajitas and burritos. Among the appetizers is the Quesadilla Tapatia, made with onions, tomatoes and seasoned shrimp, and served with guacamole and sour cream. American dishes include halibut fish and chips, burgers and sandwiches.

Atmosphere: As the name suggests, the restaurant resembles a cathedral, with a maximum capacity of just less than 300. There are multiple floors for dining, and the bottom floor is home to the bar and karaoke. The decor is an interesting, colorful and festive display of culture: beautifully painted murals, piñatas, and hand-carved chairs and booths. Some main floor dining areas are under a cathedral ceiling, while other areas have large wooden beams above, supported by uprights topped with ornamental cornices, which lend to a patio feel. Booths along the perimeter have high backs, allowing for an intimate dining experience amid the expansive space. Outside dining is also available, weather permitting.

Other observations: The wait staff was friendly and very attentive. The restaurant, which has been in business for more than 10 years, is clean and is not in need of repair. Even though it is spacious, it does not feel vacant, and there are interesting decor elements that make it aesthetically appealing.

Cost: Appetizers are $4.50 to $8.50. Lunch dishes cost $5.95 to $7.50. Platters range from $13.75 to $19.95. Al la carte items are around $4. Egg dishes are $8.50. Tacos, tostadas, enchiladas and burritos come with rice and beans, and cost $8.25 to $11.95. Combinations are $8.75 to $9.25. Seafood dishes range from $4.75 to $14.95. Soups and salads start at $3.75 and top out at $8.95. House specials are $10.95 to $12.95. Desserts cost $3.25 to $4.95. American plates range from $4.25 to $15.95.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Where: 707 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver.

Telephone: 360-891-0055.

Health score: Catedral Tapatia Authentic Mexican Food & Cantina received a score of 0 on Nov. 6, 2014. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.